What is it about surfers? Even on the smallest of surf days they seem to be out there in the ocean hooting and having a swell time … almost always a picturesque moment frozen in time as they glide down the waves. Ask them … those crazy board riding people as to why they pursue this sport endlessly, and with complete passion, and these are the things they will tell you:

Huwsplums: Being able to get away from everyone and everything when you’re stressed where no-one can get hold of you – no mobile phones!!!

Daf Williams: Seeing the lip crash down as you duckdive through a hollow keg, pulling snaps at the most vertical part of a section/close out so that the wave actually takes you down with it..

red&yellow: Paddling and riding over the wave in a large set and not being dragged into the face.

Steve: Getting butterflies in your stomach because you know it’s a big swell and can’t wait to get in the water. Like this weekend, I’m trying to get all my Open Uni work out of the way not to spoil the weekend.

surfing dark lord: Going for a pint after…no question man or denying your mates claim to have had a cover up… always a close second.

Shorum: Driving to the beach. Ooh the anticipation…

adie: Seeing the sun shining through the lip of a peeling barrel

salsan: Surfing at sunrise and sunset..

thesurfingcat: The slide. The feeling of slipping fluidly over the surface of the water, sapping the full potential of the waves to pull you shoreward, then immediately paddling back out to do it again.

Kev: That inner smile after a good session, and every time you think about thereafter.

nick flack: I love that. Hours later, at home, in the pub, wherever…You close your eyes, and you can still see the lip coming up. A small smile, barely visible on the outside is as big as the ocean inside. Only a surfer my friend…

Kev: Years later, even, the very best sessions are still embedded and can be recalled whenever. Thought myself to sleep last night with one at Slade Reef 6+ yrs ago Big waves on my 10’6″ just me and Silverback surer out. Smiling now.

surfing squirrel: Dropping a load at dawn watching the swell roll in

Bic: The anticipation of a good session.

Duncan_Agg: Sitting out back, waiting for a set to come-lots of thinking time to yourself. so peaceful perfect.

Jamez: Laughing out loud as you watch your m8 get caught inside on a shallow reef whilst the set of the day flies through onto him…..hehehe

Gazza D: Searching for new waves and getting them perfect with just your mates.

Oafie: catching a few waves with wildlife, looking down on a slow easy right & gliding over a massive stingray…and just the smoothness of a sloooow peeeling wave & the board just doing what you want it to!

EvS: Feeling like you’re flying!

Beach Brum: Sitting out back @ whitesands watching oyster catchers and seals while waiting for that set to come in.

Mart: The late arvo sun as the glassy waters around you turn pinky red as the sun sinks + scoring on a dawn patrol and the satisfaction you get, driving back as everyone else is on their way into work having missed it!

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