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Losing Surf is Easy, Revisited.

Ronald Cordero Posted by Ronald Cordero on Oct 21st, 2009 and filed under Surfer's Log. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0. You can leave a response or trackback to this entry

I recently wrote about my growing concern about the lack of “need” to surf during the last few months, and it is about time that I revisited that notion. It has indeed been over two months since I have paddled out into the great blue yonder on my trusted surfboard, and the oddly persistent itch to surf is nowhere to be found! [original article HERE]

I asked a fellow surfer about his experiences with surf withdrawal, and if he has ever gone through this same ‘lack of interest’ — his answer served as a beacon for me, lighting the way towards an answer at the very least. He said that his ‘itch’ for getting into the water is not as persistent, if not non-existent, when he knows that he has projects to complete or work to do. It turns out that when his mind and body are fully aware of pressing matters that need addressing, his need or desire to surf get curbed much easier. He doesn’t miss it because he knows that no matter what, he’s not getting in the water anyway!

A light bulb went off in my head, albeit a very dim one. I didn’t lose the desire to surf, I simply was not aware that my mind and body had resolved it already that I would not be surfing any time soon … especially during this year-long sojourn through mostly land-locked regions. I don’t miss surfing because my body and mind are protecting me from massive withdrawal over the next twelve months!

The good news is that I managed to get some surfing in recently … at some fairly popular beach breaks, with some really good surfers.  And although my shoulders ached way too early into the multiple sessions I managed to engage in – a possible result of not surfing for a lengthy period – it was a very welcome and familiar feeling that my body welcomed.

The warm water enveloping my dried-saltwater-encased body was truly invigorating … reminding me of dawn sessions in Hawaii with good friends, and loved ones! Losing surf may have been easy, but getting it back proved to be an almost-too-natural, and all-too-easy turn. And the best part? I am going surfing again tomorrow!



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