Beginning surfers often quietly share with me that they feel like giving up on the sport altogether, often due to the perception that they “just can’t seem to get it right“. Although I know plenty of surfers that would revel in the reduction of numbers in the lineup as a result of “learning-fallout”, it needs to be said that this sentiment is far from being uncommon.

At some point and time during the learning process, most of us have voiced the desire to chuck it all and quit. Some long-time surfers have seen their surfing skill development flat line periodically because they are concerned with looking “stupid” trying to learn new things. Pro surfers even leave the sport altogether in defiance of the popular expectation of what surfing should be like. As beginners, the feeling of  ”giving up the sport” often arises from letting your own expectations, and at times the expectations of others, to override what surfing is (and should be) all about: learning.

And fun. Learning and fun. The fun in learning.

If you place things in perspective, the most incredible thing about surfing is that there is no right or wrong way! You can go out into the lineup and get hammered by a wave, and another, and another … even dragged underwater for a bit, but you check yourself and then catch a good wave. All is good again, and you have learned something about yourself, the waves, and determination.

That’s right, beginning surfers, determination! The fact that you are out there in the middle of the ocean, participating in one of the hardest sports around is a testament to your determination. Surfing does not discriminate; it does not care about your heritage or financial bottom line, your color, race , or creed. Surfing takes on all comers, and allows your inner spirit to come out.

Every wave is different, every break offers new experiences, and every moment dares you to be great. It’s just you and your inner self working the water over and iver again, looking for the next new thing to learn about the ocean and yourself.

One of the best lessons that surfing taught me that I often share with people is mired in the idea of control. The ocean is in control, period. The ocean is your master out there, and you are but a speck to be done with as it pleases … and most surfers that have learned this understand the momentary notion of “not getting it“. There is nothing to get … there is no right or wrong … just you and surfing. Once you admit this and actually accept it, the more enjoyable your surfing experiences will become.

So stop “trying” to surf … stop trying to fit yourself into some pre-determined mold that you may have gotten yourself into about what surfing should look like. Stop worrying how you look out in the water, and whether or not someone saw you get trashed by that last wave that rolled in. WE ALL HAVE HAD THAT HAPPEN TOO! Just get out there, stick to your guns and determined spirit and paddle back out. You never know when the next wave will be the good wave … but you can only catch it if you are out there looking for it!

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