Location check? Australia. Surfing at Bondi Beach during this particular visit was a “hit or miss” situation. Maybe there are waves to ride, and then again maybe the wind decides it will create a mushy mix of the pitchy waves … resembling melting marshmallows oozing down towards the sand.
Perhaps the almighty sun will come out and bless you with warmth and good cheer, and then again maybe your hands will freeze the first paddle you take in the water. This may not be so bad if you are a seasoned Oz surfer, accustomed to the ravages of cold water surfing, armed with a full wettie (that’s a wet suit Yank!), or an Aussie polar bear extremely immune to the effects of cold water hypothermia.
But being a spoiled warm water surfer from Hawaii, where the air and water temperature is barely ever 5 degrees apart and often at 76 degrees Farenheit, these conditions are just that much on the side of “cold”, and truly a test of one’s will and stamina.
And there was the ice water-like rain … always making a point to drizzle off your face and hands as a reminder that the wind will quickly make your goose bumps rise to unbelievable levels.
That was 2 days ago.
And so you can imagine the great joy I was experiencing while walking down the familiar path at Diamond Head, surfboard in hand, in great anticipation of the warm waters and familiar surf break in Hawaii. Sun, surf, and good weather … quite a difference from the wintery chills in Oz just amere 48 hours ago! I love visiting Australia and all the people, plus the food is incredibly tasty! BUT, as much as I would call Sydney my second home on any given day, we are truly ever-so-lucky to live in Hawaii!
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