Yesterday was a short but sweet session. I managed to Squeeze in ’bout 20 minutes. I didn’t know why da heck I was going out for such a short time … but well worth it. I had more success during yesterday’s session than the longer one the day before.

In case I haven’t mentioned this yet, I have a hand-me-down performance longboard, and have been told that it may not be the best to learn on – apparently, the shape and rocker on it requires more experience. But hell when you get it for free from your older bro, you work with what you got! And I knew I could do it.

My experienced big wave surfer friend saw it and said “Girl you scored! I can rip on this!” That says a lot don’t it?

My very first day out on this board I immediately noticed what balance it required .. as just laying on it to paddle caused me  to wobble back and forth. Just sitting up on it waiting for waves was also wobbly, and a few times I got so off balanced that I flipped off the surfboard and into the ocean. Yeah wiping out when no waves around, gotta luv it.

The best was feeling like I was  bull riding as I floated over the waves. Yee haw, ride em cowgirl! (Ever heard that saying “Cowgirl up!”? That’s me on a surf board toughing it out on my bull riding board.) Imagine the sight of that one out there.

So yesterday, while paddling out I noticed how stable I was. When I got out to my point of sitting up…stable. Well what do you know…no more bull riding. Maybe I’ll take that up after mastering this surfing thing.

And that last issue of how to deal with oncoming waves as I paddle out? I kind of decided to take the “Jackass” approach to it. You know those crazy guys that do those unthinkable stunts on that cable show. I saw a few episodes and some were great laughs, while others were just head shakers of disbelief. Anyway, I actually decided to channel that energy, just a little, in dealing with those waves. I got some power from it as I had a wave break right in front of me, I powered through it with my “Jackass” mentality and dipped the nose of the board and just braced for it like a football lineman and bam! … came out the back unscathed.

Now mind you these are just itty bitty waves in comparison to the “real” waves. BUT I harnessed a productive fearlessness from the “Jackass” dudes with more prudence of course.  I also did a proper pop up on the board on my first wave. So in terms of this short session .. a lot gained and no dismissing short sessions for lack of time. Squeeze it in, it will be worth it!

My turns are getting better. I used to boogie board and it was easy to whip that board around on your belly but those skegs make it more difficult.  I had to inquire on how to do this, and found out that I need to be sitting towards the rear of the surfboard, and then dip the back of the board down into the water – literally lifting most of the surfboard out of the water,  and then use your legs to make egg beater kicks to turn around. Eventually, you can pick up the board, swing it around and go without the kicks! A surfer friend pointed out additional tricks like grabbing the rail of the surfboard with one hand and pulling the board in the direction of that hand, egg beater feet and use other free hand to paddle in the direction you are turning. Little details helped.

Oh, regarding the issue of whether you can duck dive a longboard … apparently a common question, as a newer surfers than myself have asked this same question of me. Not really a good option or possibility with longboards.  You need to dip the nose of the surfboard into the water, straighten your arms up like  in yoga when doing up dog, THEN let the wave pass between your surfboardboard and body, and then do a move that seems like a little hop with the legs, only to to end in a position which I can only describe as a breakdance move called the worm. I guess the hop is an option as it takes a bit of your energy out of you, but fun nonetheless to do.

Turtling – a move to break through waves with a longboard –  was funny; sounds easier than it is. For the bigger white wash that you go over, you flip your surfboard over and let wave pass over you. Little details in that also! During my first flip, I was underwater and hit my head on the board trying to pull the board down. But instead, I pulled myself up to the board and hit my head.  ’Kay that didn’t feel right.

Or the other time I forgot to take a breath before going under. As soon as I got under I realized “I can’t f—ing breath”. I had to come up for air quick before the second set of waves hit, and I did barely just gasped as I got hit by the white wash. That was hilarious! So much to think about you forget the most basic life needs … breathing. No way! My surfer friend taught me to reach as far forward as possible when turtling so you can pull the nose down when the wave passes, and using a hooking motion to let your legs onto the rail of board … this helps. Damn that sounds pretty easy but NOT. Takes practice but looks hella comfortable.

So for now I think I am just flipping and hanging on. I really haven’t put much thought in this yet. Lower on my list of surf technique priorities. Speaking of turtles … those big and little guys are all over the place at this surf break! Their facial expressions when taking a breath looks as if they held their breath too long and just made it up for a gasp of air (kind of like my turtle experience … well what do you know.).

Right before hitting the shore and sandy point to jump off the board, I felt like I bumped the reef … as it was low tide. But I don’t remember reef or rocks being that close to the surface in that area. So I decide to jump off the board to avoid hitting more rocks. I look back to take off my leash and low and behold a gasping turtle face pops up for air. I bumped into the turtle and they do scare me when they pop up out of the water … especially if I don’t see them first.

On that note I was told you need to look out for these guys while on a wave since hitting them could damage your board … or worse the turtles! Damn hazards to avoid … so surfing can turn into a real-life video game. Thus the necessity of knowing how to steer your board. It  all involves core strength and movement, like doing yoga on your board. Turn shoulders and shift weight and hips. This is something I am playing around with once I’m on a wave.

My positioning and location on the board determines speed while on the board, prone placement on the surfboard while paddling to drop in for a wave, different wave timing and paddling strength crucial as it determines whether you will pearl or fall out of a wave. These require a little more wave knowledge. I am not there yet but I do know when to pull out of a wave or how to avoid pearling – TIP ONE: longboard nose in the water … pull out or you will pearl!!! By the way, your surfboard pearling = board turning you into human catapult. When nose catches in water it back flips you like a pancake being flipped over… it literally launches you forward! Surreal to have this happen to you for the first time!

So much to remember! But just take mental notes, and work on each one at a time. Gung Ho!

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