During my last surf session, in my quest to improve as a surfer, I came across a pleasant issue. As I am beginning to ride longer waves, as well as playing around with turning and moving up and down on the long board … I have noticed the rail (the side of the surfboard) dips into the water when I try to turn. This action throws me off balance, and while at times I am able to regain my balance … it is not always.

I asked a surfer friend about this issue, and I was told that gaining speed and planing on a surfboard involves this process. It was explained to me that this is how to gain momentum on a wave: going up and down the wave. But these are 1 to 2 foot Hawaiian. Not much wave surface for going up and down.

Wave sizes: apparently Hawaiian waves are measured from the back and not the front. Wave height from the back is shorter than from the front. So I was told in general 1 to 2 foot Hawaiian is like 2 to 4 regular or something to that effect.

So learning more about surfing in the water and outside the water … and about the water.