I paddled out and caught the very first wave that came across my path, surprisingly even before I could even sit up to wait around for one. I was up on my board and on a long ride … the longest ever. That ride determined and defined my surf session.
Next, I went head on with a breaking wave and busted through to the other side like a football linebacker. What a thrill to apply my “Jackass” crazy mentality to challenge a wave. Mind you, these are smaller waves than usual, but I did it and felt good.
Some regular surfing friends were out at the line up and saw me fully diggin’ the waves. I am so lucky to have those guys out there – always giving me something new to work on once I have gotten the hang of something. The next thing to work on is shortening my stance to make it easier to turn on my board.
Then there is the surf jargon. There was talk about surfboards, and the mention of quivers. Knowing it was surf jargon, I joked that quiver is something you do or the state you’re in when a wave is about to break on you … because you’re in the wrong spot. Or is it the bag that holds all your arrows?
Well apparently for surfers a quiver is a collection of surfboards that one develops when you become a surfer.