Did someone teach you how to surf? If you are like me, my friends, and most surfers, then no one taught you how to surf. You may have paddled out with someone who knew how to surf, and they gave you a few pointers, but for the most part you figured it out on your own.
It seems to be that way in the working world today as well. Sure, we like something about you, you seem to have a resume that would lend itself to skills that we need or desire. Welcome aboard, you are sitting here. Now go figure out what you are supposed to do and do it….. Ok…. Now what? Try different approaches to projects and people; note the outcome and practice. Practice for 40 years and then retire.
Surfing; get a board, get in the water, try different stances and take-offs, note the outcome and practice. Practice for as long as you physically can. BUT here are some initial tips to get you going, consider it a freebie :
- CHOOSE the right equipment for yourself. This means selecting a board size and shape that is right for your skill level and body size. In addition, you will need to buy a leash, so you that won’t lose your board in the water and some wax, so your feet won’t slip.
- PICK A LOCATION where the waves break closely to shore, and the waves aren’t too big. You also may want to pick a day where the waves isn’t too choppy. Choose an area that isn’t crowded with other surfers, although this may be hard.
- WATCH OTHER SURFERS BEFORE YOU PADDLE OUT! Look at where they paddle out into, where they sit, where the breaks are, where the channel may be … BUT JUST WATCH! The biggest mistake is paddling out first, then looking. You will gain more respect from local surfers if you show that you are taking your cues from them …
- LOOK for an area in the line-up that you can sit and observe as well. The waves and the people behave differently once you are actually in the the water.
FIND THE SHOULDER of the waves … this is where you want to sit and observe how surfers catch waves, what paths they follow, and how the ocean moves.- RESOLVE that you will fall. A lot! SO leave your ego with your towel on the beach …
- THEN, once you have WATCHED for a while, push your board out into the water until you are waist-deep, just beyond where the waves are breaking on shore. Sit up on your board and practice riding the waves into the shore without standing up. Do this until you feel comfortable with the way your board handles, and how your body affects its movement.
- Practice how to TURN your board around the waves … usually involving placing your weight on any of the sides of the surfboard.
- Standing up is the hardest part of learning how to surf. The goal is to place both your feet on the board at the same time, in the right position, so that you will not lose your balance and fall into the water.
- Repeat ALL THE STEPS … it’s called practice!.
The Key is to always WATCH, and LOOK … it was the frs tthing the Dick and Jane books taught you in school, and it will serve you well in the water!
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