It seemed like a horribly good idea at the time … … since the predicted 20 to 40 mph winds did not arrive. It seemed like such a smart idea!

Even as the rain poured mercilessly on my board and I while we walked down the path to the beach, the slight glimmer of sunshine gave me hope. Afterall, this WAS Diamond Head — we regulars often find great waves on the windiest and crappiest of days. This was going to be one of those days. A fellow surfer even hooted at me to go get ‘em as I turned the corner. He, I noticed, was dry though!

And so, my fellow surfers, what had started out to be an ever-so-optimistic-session turned out to be a two hour paddle out to the RIGHT as I struggled to get to the lineup (WAS there even one?). It was just as choppy and windy as it looked, without any sign of the mystical Diamond Head session that usually made itself known on days like these. Not today. The striking thing was that there were at least 5 other people out there in the water, I’m assuming, praying for that mystical session as well. Frustrated and tired from endlessly paddling to the right, I cursed the waves and made my way in. Dejected. I mumbled in a barely audible voice “Well, that was not worth it at all.”

On cue, as if waiting for me to say just that, a Honu (Green Turtle or Chelonia mydas) popped his ever so peaceful head directly in front of my face … right out of the water. A giant smile replaced whatever exhausted expression I had on my face, and I knew that all was well. All was forgiven, and it was indeed all worth the paddle out there. It is funny how I am reminded of the things that MUST be important in life. It often arrives as quirky and unexpected reminders that I cannot ever get too big in my own perception, nor too self-centered in my expectations. A Honu I know reminded me of that!

And just to place an exclamation point at the end of this lesson, fellow surfers, someone I just met told me that a friend’s life was saved by surfing. I was so awe struck by this statement that I forgot to pursue the topic further. Surfing saves lives … I would like to hear or read that particular person’s story one of these days … it will serve as a true affirmation as to why surfing is truly life changing.

And that is true. Surfing, and the beauty that it holds, grabs you by the hand and transforms your perspective on this world of ours. It makes you see green turtles, and it makes you see beauty in a life that you may have given up on!

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