There are few more satisfying feelings in the world than that waterlogged, salty, muscle-aching, red-eyed, stoked exhaustion after a really, really, really fun surf. You know when you stay in the water until you are not even sure you can make it in and you decide that this is your wave in, and then that wave is SO much fun, that you just HAVE to go straight back out, and then halfway through the paddle you realise that your shoulders hate you, so this time it will DEFINITELY be your last wave, but then that wave is just so perfect! And then, when you finally get yourself to the beach, one of your dearest friends is standing on the sand begging you to go back out for a few more and suddenly you have so much energy all over again, but halfway through paddling back out you remember about the way your shoulders hate you and decide that this is definitely going to be your last wave in and then it’s such a great wave and so you reckon you will just go for one more…
You know the kind of surf I’m talking about, right?
Well, I had forgotten just how wonderful that get-home-and-stand-in-the-kitchen-in-my-swimmers-gushing-to-mum-and-then-collapsing-into-the-shower-after-a-perfect-surf feeling is!! It’s heaven.
And there was dinner waiting for my tired, happy body after that shower too, by the way.