The rules of surfing are eternally unwritten. They undulate from break to break like the surface of the water, but like the water, they adhere to the laws of nature – the delicate balance between gravity and surface tension.

There are no referees in the water. There are no cops, supervisors, principals or mommies to run to when things go wrong. Surfers conduct themselves by a loose set of principles, which get passed down through the generations the way a mother bird teaches its young to fly, by nudging them out of the nest.

I can only tell you enough so that you can venture into the water and begin learning for yourself. Feel the rules. In the line-up, the vibe will tell you what’s going on. The breeze will tell whether it is a day for sharing waves, or every-man-for-himself. Close your eyes and you will know whether it is a day for solemn silence, or a day to hoot and shout.

The vibe will tell you.You’ll know when you know. You will.