Recently a friend of mine said he just didn’t feel like surfing anymore. Waking up early for dawn patrol has been a daily ritual in his life for the past few years. Now, suddenly, he doesn’t feel like it anymore?

Perhaps it has gotten too routine for him. Maybe he isn’t pushing himself in the water. Maybe he needs to try a new break or a new board. No matter what the issue, he still continues to go … and this past weekend I think he fell in love with surfing again, I know I did. A beautiful morning at Pop’s in Waikiki. The waves were big with consistent lines rolling in. Paddling took a lot of energy and most times, after battling, I would see a wave coming and instead of fighting it trying to get out, I just turned around and caught it. Sure the waves I was catching were smaller, but I was alone on the wave and having a lot of fun!

That’s when I remembered why I love surfing: The feeling of my shoulders, arms and back aching after a long paddle out and catching lots of waves. The feeling that I may not make the paddle in because I am so tired. Stopping halfway to swim in the calm waters. The excitement I feel in my gut when I get off what I know has just been my wave of the day. The increased energy I have paddling back out after that ride.

Getting humbled by the ocean just when think you have made the drop or pulled off a turn. Getting out of the water at 7:30am, having breakfast and making it home by 10:00am only to realize I still have the entire day ahead of me. Being so tired by 9pm that I fall asleep knowing I need to wake up early to do it all over again.

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