A surfer’s wish this holiday season eh? ‘That’s easy’ you say with a Grinch-like grin! No, dear friends, it is not for a bigger quiver of surfboards or a surf break alone to myself every dawn session (although those things are quite desirable too!). It has been many years since I have indulged in that [...]
It’s a wonder that this sport we all love so much is called surfing at all, since we are actually paddling about 90 percent of the time when we are out in the water! Although the glory is in ripping wicked-bad bottom turns and busting out massive air, much of the work in getting into [...]
Every surfer that has begun to move away from the world of surf instructors and beginner breaks, and onto the singular form of learning and fabled “home breaks” knows how critical it is to get the “pop-up” just right. Over anticipate the pop-up and you can ensure that you’ll be watching the back of the [...]
I love this quote, and it speaks to me at this present moment … for right now, I am being tossed around in the “sudsy” goodness of a rather large sized wave as it pummels me into the washing machione cycle of the ocean. It’s all about constantly being in the now; knowing you don’t [...]
One of the most common things you’ll hear a surfer say when asked about how much time they spend in the water is “Of course I surf every day that I can, it keeps you from going nuts.” True, There is an entirely spiritual and zen side to the sport of surfing that gives us [...]
Beginning surfers often quietly share with me that they feel like giving up on the sport altogether, often due to the perception that they “just can’t seem to get it right“. Although I know plenty of surfers that would revel in the reduction of numbers in the lineup as a result of “learning-fallout”, it needs [...]
One of the questions we receive most frequently from beginning surfers is this one: “Do I paddle with my back arched“? In the end my dear surfer friends, although there are various answers and discussions about paddling methods and techniques, it is all about the physics of paddling. Arching your back will make sure that your [...]
Stoke is the experience of dynamic, dynamite-like movement and of standstill shock, at one and the same time. Mystics would say this is an experience of eternity—eternity merely unending time, nor the mere absence of time, but the presence of all time at one present moment. I think this explains the deep happiness that both [...]
For as long as I can remember I have had very vivid dreams. Sometimes disturbing nightmares that wake me in the middle of night, some blissful images of intense happiness and some just random scenes that don’t seem to make sense. Even though they can vary greatly I have always felt blessed that I can [...]
I have been surfing for about 7 years now. Taught myself. It’s a very difficult sport to master and I’m not even close to where I want to be. But I work on it, constantly. I surf because it maintains my sanity. Without it, I’m left swimming in a sea of dark mental chatter that [...]
Large wave that forms with distinct shoulders on either side (left and right) of the peak. This can result in two surfers enjoying the same wave; one going frontside and the other going backside. (courtesy of Riptionary.com)
Surfing legend Laird Hamilton says the ocean is one of the greatest teachers. “Simple laws and philosophies can be traced to the purity of the ocean,” says Hamilton, who created tow-in surfing, in which surfers are towed like water skiers into massive waves. This year, the 44-year-old dives into some new waters. His clothing line [...]
Fading : The act of dropping into a wave and turning away from the steepest part of the face. Usually done as a positioning maneuver in lieu of stalling to get back into the pocket. (courtesy of Riptionary the Surf Lingo)
Recently a friend of mine said he just didn’t feel like surfing anymore. Waking up early for dawn patrol has been a daily ritual in his life for the past few years. Now, suddenly, he doesn’t feel like it anymore? Perhaps it has gotten too routine for him. Maybe he isn’t pushing himself in the [...]
You’re out there, having a fun and great time, enjoying the warm feel of the sun on your slowly darkening cheeks, and relishing the cool splash of ocean water about your face. You smile knowingly, hearing your friends are nearby, hooting and hollering as wave after fun wave rolls in … truly a surfer’s dream come [...]
