A surfer’s wish this holiday season eh? ‘That’s easy’ you say with a Grinch-like grin! No, dear friends, it is not for a bigger quiver of surfboards or a surf break alone to myself every dawn session (although those things are quite desirable too!). It has been many years since I have indulged in that [...]
Some days, it all just works. Some days it feels right. You have flow, inspiration, motivation, enthusiasm, energy and it all comes easily and without effort. Your ideas, thoughts, excitement, heart, mind and body all spill out through your fingers, hands and feet. They move out through the things you create and easily become lines, [...]
Ali Hale wrote an article on her blog about creating more time in your day, and it got me to thinking about the same thing with regards to surfing. Although you cannot actually create more time – I checked and even Einstein couldn’t get his hands around that task – the management of tasks and [...]
What’s so special about surfing? Whats so special about the wind? Surfing is to… be with that mystery. To ride that mystery for as long as you can. And then when its over thats cool because you know what? You were there, in line and on time.
Stoke is the experience of dynamic, dynamite-like movement and of standstill shock, at one and the same time. Mystics would say this is an experience of eternity—eternity merely unending time, nor the mere absence of time, but the presence of all time at one present moment. I think this explains the deep happiness that both [...]
For the second time in my life, the person I recently broke up with is moving. Just as suddenly as the first time, there is no reason or explanation, just a frenzied rush to get out of where they are. They say the will be quitting their job, selling their house, and heading out to [...]
The other day I took a stroll to all of my favorite think spots. For a surfer, naturally, the optimal place to ponder in peace is the beach. While allowing me to check the surf at the same time, the beach is a very beautiful creation of nature. Being in one of those introspective moods [...]
Jason gave up surfing when he met a girl, and they got married. It seems that they needed more time together, and since she didn’t surf, that particular activity was first on the chopping block. Slowly, one day at a time, Jason disappeared from the line up. It didn’t happen all at once – the [...]
Sometimes being a friend means mastering the art of timing. There is a time for silence. A time to let go and allow people to hurl themselves into their own destiny. And a time to prepare to pick up the pieces when it’s all over. – Gloria Naylor
Do your best to keep yourself in balance. One of the first things that causes inner conflict is asking or demanding too much of yourself in terms of time and effort. In other words, you just cannot burn the candle at both ends, so that you are physically tired, and then expect yourself to have [...]
Being a daily surfer without a full-time, 9 to 7, daily grind job definitely has its perks! If you have the means or the inclination, I highly recommend trying it out for an extended period of time. Be forewarned, however, that this lifestyle is not for the faint of heart, nor those with a weak [...]
Many years ago I had an extra-special surfboard. It wasn’t custom shaped or designed specifically for me. It was just a stock board from a local surf shop chain. But there was something about this board. First of all, it was and still is one of the most beautiful boards I have ever seen. The [...]
A once-boyfriend was having a passionate affair with another woman— and her name was Golf. And the worst part, he wanted to have a three-some! I’m not kinky but I do have an open mind and a curious one as well; I wanted to know what this Golf had that was so appealing that it [...]
Cliffs is like that boyfriend your family warns you against and your friends hate. “He’s a loser,” they say. “You’re just wasting your time.” “Ditch him,” they nag. “You can so find someone WAAAY better.” To their defense, they are mostly right. Cliffs isn’t exactly that gorgeous stud muffin called Bowls, or that metro Queens [...]
I found myself wandering around a high end retail mega store one day, trying to wait out the usual late afternoon traffic horde moving from one side of the city to the other. This was a regular game I seemed to play with the traffic system … rather one-sided and has very low odds of [...]
