Should I be worried??? Have I lost something magical? Lost the urge or drive to surf?

I had to find out, since this may inevitably signal a fate far worse than moving to the frozen wastelands of the NorthWest Territories. I watched surf movies, I sniffed surf wax, I listened to Jack Johnson and Donavon Frankenreiter … I even played Kelly Slater’s Surfing video game … all to no positive yield towards the surf and the ocean. Did I get sick of surfing after only 10 years of intermittent sessions?

Did I overdose on surfing after that great series of swells that hit the south shores of Oahu as of late? I don’t have an answer yet, but I was starting to get concerned … even panicky that the one thing that passionately drove me on a daily basis may be slipping away, or worse … has slipped away! There was nothing in particular holding me back from being able to surf: not a demanding job, not a nagging spouse, not the pressures of school and studies, not even a physical condition that prevents me from paddling out.

In fact, I have a truly flexible new career, a more than supportive and equally enthused-about-surfing spouse, a couple of degrees completed and stored in my back pocket, and I am in physical condition that could rival my 20 year old self from so long ago. So what is it? I realized that surfing had become a routine for me – part of the things I perform on a daily basis without much thought. And as incredibly lucky as I am for having such a great privilege allowed to me at this stage in my life, I realized that I needed to step away from surfing, at least momentarily, in order to gain the appreciation that I once held for it. I just needed a break … to recompose and re-approach surfing. Get my bearings on what surfing means to me once more.

Although I am still in the process of this discovery, I did realize one important thing about surfing and myself: I love longboards, and the style and lines associated with the classic style of longboarding. After experimenting with a variety of board styles and board sizes, I have returned to the drop-knee style of surfing … the long drawn lines … and noseriding. Don’t get me wrong, I like shortboarding for training purposes, and for larger pitchier waves … it teaches me to ride anything and everything on a constant basis. But for my money, I prefer my classic 9’2″ … arched back, and hands clasped together behind me on a long clean wave.

I also realized that I need to moderate my surfing. I need to ensure that I still appreciate the beauty and freedom of surfing by not allowing me to get too complacent with the freedoms I have to surf on any given day. As I review this aspect of my life, I have become very aware of the special things I experience on a daily basis, and have begun to hold them with a much deeper sense of appreciation.

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Emily has been patrolling Malibu’s Zuma Beach, with her inventor claiming that she can swim twelve times as fast as human lifeguards.
Emily doesn’t look like your ‘traditional’ robot. Instead she is a four-foot-long remote-controlled robotic buoy. Emily is set to cost around $3,500, and also makes use of a sonar system which builds 3D maps of surrounding water currents and is able to identify noises associated with swimmers in trouble.

47-year-old inventor Tony Mulligan claims that his latest creation can power through Malibu’s heavy white-water breaking surf at over 24 miles an hour. Quite an achievement, as any would-be surfer that’s tried paddling out in heavy waves will know.

Emily was later born out of an original project back in late 2009 to build a small remote-controlled boat to monitor marine life for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). Mulligan’s new startup is an Arizona-based company called Hydronalix, producing ‘new technology concepts for maritime robotics.’

However, those pesky old-fashioned ‘human’ models of lifeguard are not taking this robot threat lying down. ”This is a classic example of an inventor’s idea of how to solve a problem that doesn’t necessarily coincide with reality,” according to the president of the US Lifesaving Association B. Chris Brewster, who also points out that Emily would be of no help to an unconscious swimmer or surfer.

In surfing, and in life, while I wait for the next “ride”, am I calm and patient, or restless and irritated? When that wave does come, am I focused, centered and present, or am I scattered and living in another moment? Do I take the first wave that comes my way, or do I take my chances that the next one will give me a superior ride? When I do decide which wave I’m going to take, that first drop or step is crucial, it will determine how the rest of the wave will go. It requires confidence, commitment, and above all, the will to make it.

Sometimes the ocean gives you the most amazing rush, and other times it serves you up a beating that makes you think you might not live to see the next breath. And no wave lasts forever, whether it’s a fun ride or not, like everything else, it too will come to an end.

If you think about what a wave is, energy that has been traveling for thousands of miles, and that journey across the ocean ends when it hits land and forms a wave. If your in the center of that wave, in the barrel, in a cylinder of energy that has been building up until that moment, it’s a mind-blowing experience!

So let’s got for a surf, and see where our head is at for the day, week, month, year, life…

The days of Endless Summer’s idealized surf trip pre-requisites of “surfboard, wax, sun screen and passport” are long gone … having given way to multiple airport security screenings, expensive airline fees for oversized luggage, and the sudden boom of surf-related anything all over the world thanks in large part to the multi-billion dollar push from the surf industry moguls.

But have no fear, minor inconveniences will not deter determined surfers from their goal of finding surf nirvana around the globe, it just requires better planning and preparation for what may lie ahead. (There are considerable differences when surfing in warm water and cold climate locations, ranging from the type of wax you will need all the way to the rash guard or wet suit you will wear … so we’ll try to keep that factor in check as we go through the list.)

Outside of doing your usual Google research on visa requirements and entry fees for the countries you are visiting, and making sure your credit cards, passport and driver’s license are up-to-date there are some essential tips to know before embarking on a surf trip. And so, dear kindred spirit of the waves, with a few million miles under our collective surf-travel belts, we have assembled the quintessential surf trip primer for all you travelling surfers:

Surf Camp or Going on your own? This is the mother of all the check list pre-requisites; the one that determines how you will be preparing for the trip from here on in! Your goal will be to get there the easiest, the fastest, and in the most efficient method available to maximize your water time … so an all-inclusive surf camp may be the most beneficial to your budget and timeline. That being said, a surf adventure where you discover your own way and seek out your own waves provides a more rewarding experience for the globe-trotting surfer. Choose wisely so that your ultimate goal of maximum surf time is addressed properly!

Although a slightly more expensive method for surf travel, the surf camp experience traditionally will provide you with almost everything you may need. You can relax knowing things are covered – ranging from accommodations, meals, a local surf guide, transportation to and from various surf breaks (either by land or by boat), surfboards to choose from, wax, leash, repairs … and even facilities to chill or exercise, whatever you may need.

Surf camps generally cater to surfers who want to land at the airport and know that their gear is available and ready to go, just point to the break and they’re off surfing. Set in a setting where you are with other surfers and seasoned staff and surf experts to assist you, this type of surf travel relieves you from some stress. You do not have to pack much of your usual surf gear (especially your surfboards!), and the camp quiver allows you the luxury of avoiding oversized luggage fees and the paranoid fear of someone dinging your board (or worse!) during transport.

Surf Bag or Case. If you choose to bring your own board or a selection from your quiver, be sure to protect your surfboards! In the past, we have gone with surf bags padded with rash guards and towels on the inside, surfboard coffins that held 2 or more boards, and even professionally packed and shipped boards. In that same order, we (meaning us and our boards) suffered from dings and broken surfboard noses, expensive airline luggage fees, and stolen – even oddly replaced with another older - surfboard. But over the years, although the number of airlines have reduced (even removed) routes that allow surfboard travel … some seriously decent board protection has evolved (see Soma), allowing peace of mind for the insistent quiver snob!

Surf Wear. Although most surf camps provide you with all-around-use rash guards or wet suits, they do tend to be used. During our surf travels, we have found it extremely beneficial to have our own surf wear in tow. With the added benefit of wearing your favorite brand or style, SPF protection, and the security of properly fitting wet suits (one’s that are not loosely hanging off our bodies while surfing in cold water!), the packing space is minimal for two or three rash guards or wetties!

Hats and sunglasses are also a must! Whether you are sitting in the line up, at the beach, or in the jacuzzi, proper sun protection allows you to extend your surf time. There can be nothing more frustrating than travelling halfway around the globe and being sidelined from surfing by a bad sunburn!

Surf Gear & Accessories. Yes, you need to bring your first aid kit and a slew of spare or preferred surf goodies like fins and key, leashes (they are either righteously expensive or well worn!), ding repair kit (in water repair kit is better!), surf wax (remember to bring temperature relevant and eco-friendly wax!), and duct tape. We cannot stress the duct tape enough to travelling surfers … it can act as ding repair, leash repair, packing tape, laundry line, well you name it! Another surprise travel item that we found extremely useful is a lock box that we stashed room keys, cash, and credit cards in while surfing. Locked to the car, van, or boat it allowed us to surf freely and return to safely stowed dry cash and cards for the lunch stop or a quick round of drinks at the bar before heading out again.

Dry Bag. Whether it be boat trips or the unexpected downpour, your change of clothes or towel and snacks will thank you for bringing this essential piece of travel gear! Not just for surf travel anymore, a sturdy, waterproof dry bag can protect all of your electronics, surf accessories, and identification cards from the very playground you are floating around in!

Waterproof Camera and memory cards / flash drives. Much like the mythical Wendigo or Bigfoot, no one will blink twice when you wax poetic about “that double overhead left that stayed open after a late drop” if you can’t produce a decent photo. A blurry snapshot of what could be you or Bigfoot on either a knee-high or double overhead wave just cannot cut in on Facebook these days! With a plethora of inexpensive digital cameras with waterproof housings or cases in today’s market – like the Hero Pro or Olympus’ Underwater line – your surf trip will shine brightly with photos to document your journey – since most of us cannot afford to have filmmakers following us around to surf breaks!

Gift Items and Goodies. Here is the key to merry travelling and extremely useful tool for establishing good will: a gift or token of appreciation. More than a cash tip, you can extend friendship and goodwill while surf travelling with some surf-related gift items from your home land. Things like surfboard-shaped keychains or surf t-shirts for your surf guide and surf hosts may ensure that you get the better transport or boat at an earlier time to that secret local spot.

The most important thing to bring above it all is your sense of adventure and wonder! All the preparation and packing will be better complemented by a happy-go-lucky spirit … there are a of of things that will go right, and even a few that may go awry, but through it all make sure you extend that surfer spirit and smile with aloha in your heart!

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I get that some of us like a slow and steady day, but this isn’t about type a and type b personalities … it’s about surfing and creating a more enjoyable session as inspired by Ali Hale’s article.

Get Up Earlier : This particular one is a personal favorite since I surf dawn patrol most of the time … where the line ups are less crowded, more friendly, and enjoyable. Just when the crowds (especially over the weekends) are pulling in at the parking stalls, I have already logged two to three hours of water time. As a bonus, I get to watch the sun rise as I am stretching on the beach. Even better, if you’re out early enough, you have a 30 minute window where you’re the only one in the water and the line up … empty waves!

Create a Plan : I get the most grief over this one, often being accused of being ‘type a’ … but it’s about prepping everything the night before so that I don’t have to rush around early in the morning when I am getting up early to surf. I already checked the board for dings and damage, rewaxed the board if it needed wax (so I don’t have to beg for wax at the lineup), packed my gear and towel – fin key, leash, sun block, plus snacks and water – AND placed everything near the front door so I don’t have to go looking for it in the morning. This is especially helpful if you have to go to school or work directly after surfing!

Batch Tasks Together : Constantly jumping from one task to another often causes confusion and chaos at work, and although you may feel ‘buzzed’ by all the activity, you often don’t get much done. What can you batch together while surfing? The ‘planning’ part helps here … I can get up early, go for a 30 minute run or a quick yoga session, stretch, surf like a king, and stop by the supermarket for milk and eggs … you get the gist!

Block Out Chunks of Time :  This is where most weekend surfers fail … and newbie surfer succeed. You MUST take the time to go and surf. Yes, we all have chores, homework, to-do lists, and jobs … but you have to block out a chunk of time of your day to go and enjoy the surf. Your body will thank you for it, your family and friends will love you more for not being so grouchy or tense!

Don’t Multitask : You know this one! You sacrifice one task at the cost of another … and although you may think you are doing 2 things at once, you are actually doing two things at 50% efficiency and concentration. With that in mind, once you paddle out into the water (hopefully even as you wake up and get into the routine of going to surf) LEAVE everything behind. The shoreline becomes an invisible barrier for all things not surf-related. Surfing is all about surf … it needs your full focus and attention at the present moment … once you lose focus, you ruin your session and end up not getting either your surfing or whatever was occupying your mind completed with any satisfaction.

Stay Focused : I don’t even have to say much on this … just BE IN THE MOMENT!

Finish Work On Time : That’s right … if you say surf for an hour, you are done in an hour … so don’t cheat yourself by not doing any of the items that came before this one. All the tasks and advice above are the things that contribute to being able to enjoy a session fully, without having to feel rushed or cheated!

It was a good day to not make mistakes. The sets were coming through pretty close in, but every so often a big, fat, wide wave or two would smash through and clean out the crew sitting wide. Funny to watch from the beach though… Anyway, as I stood waiting, a guy walked down and was standing next to me. He was holding a longboard under his arm, and as I checked him out, I realised he had no legrope.

That’s not unusual in these parts, but when it’s as big and busy as this, even the die-hard-non-legrope-wearing locals bow to that length of plastic to connect them to their board. I had to comment, No legrope, huh. You’re game. He looked at me with a delightful mixture of smugness and confidence, Legropes are cheating. I laughed. Well, I guess that makes me a cheater. He smiled, shrugged and went on his way. Around here, there’s loads of crew who don’t wear leggies. Most of them are good surfers and they know the breaks and how they work. But when they lose their board, it can get messy. One local grump lost his board near me once, and then had a go at me for not grabbing it for him. I was on a wave by the way!

I’ll admit that I often go bare-legged when I surf, but not when it’s busy. When it’s small and peeling and fun, it’s fun to paddle out and take responsibility for your board and your surfing. I was talking to a friend about it the other day. She reckons more people should surf without them, It would make them more careful and they’d have to learn to hold onto their boards. True. But I’m pretty happy that (almost) everyone’s been sporting them the past few weeks. I would’ve been clocked a few times without them.

Today, I was out in the water, when the cute guy from the few days before paddled past me. Hey! and a smile. He was riding something short and fat and round and, hang on, HE WAS WEARING A LEGROPE! It was my turn to be smug, Soooo, I thought legropes were cheating? Oh? Oh yeah. Ha ha. Only on that board. This board’s different… Really, so it’s a board-based thing? There’s conditions on the cheating rules? Yeah, would you like a copy of them? Oh how we laughed. But honestly, if you’re going to go around making ‘legropes are cheating’ claims to complete strangers, then you better be consistent.

Or cute.

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If you decide to start your child on surfing younger, four years old is a good age, then you should be the one teaching them, and only after many years of experience. It is important to start on a soft-top board and that you enter the water with your child.

• Body surfing is also a great pre-surfing activity for young children to help them become comfortable with the surfboard.
• Make sure you start them on a day when the waves are small and take care with wipeouts to ensure that they do not become fearful.
• Encourage them to surf with friends of similar age and start in the summer when they have plenty of time to practice.
• Don’t go to beaches where the tide is too strong, and always go surfing where there are lifeguards.
• Most importantly remember always that this should be fun for your child!!!

• Share everything , Play fair
• Put things back where you found them, Clean up your own mess.
• Don’t take things that aren’t yours.
• Don’t hit people, and Say you’re sorry when you hurt somebody.
• Live a balanced life – learn some and think some and draw and paint and sing and dance and play and work every day some.
• Be aware of wonder.

Fulghum makes the statement that if any one of us takes these concepts and extrapolate it into “sophisticated” adult terms … and apply it to family, life, work, or the world … that it will always hold true and clear and firm as a solid base for good moral living. I believe him, and it’s quite possible that this author and Unitarian clergyman has single-handedly provided surfers all over the world the true key to zen-like surfing! If you take the ideas he has written about, and apply it to the manner by which you surf, and the attitudes that we carry as we surf … well, wisdom also lies in the surf amidst the flowing waves of the ocean.

Share everything: We all know the image of the lone surfer ripping down Banzai Pipeline by him or herself. The isolated surfer carving long sweeping turns at a point break at sunset is also a common dream for the log riders. However, if you talk to almost every surfer, their most treasured surf sessions are peppered with a common element – good surf AND good friends. Surfing as a rule is all about sharing the good times with other people. Hooting and hollering, cheering each other on when waves are good and wipe outs are gnarly. Irrespective, it’s all about sharing the good times … you get some good waves, and you revel in the experience. And sometimes, even if you had it all the way, you let your friend HAVE the wave. It’s part of having fun … sharing, that is, and it’s only fair! Oh, just so we are all clear about this … ‘dropping in’ on another surfer falls under the “Don’t take things that aren’t yours” category!

Clean up your own mess: This particular gem would solve almost all of our environmental and ecological issues as a planet! Put things back where you found them AND clean up your own mess. A simple solution would be the 20 foot rule. Simply ensure that you take care of the area around you within 20 feet! You don’t have to go out of your way to clean up after everyone and everything … but as you walk around, to and from surfing, make sure you pick up the trash and garbage you see along the way! Take care of you, the environment, and the planet around you 20 feet at a time!

Don’t hit people: When you have a six foot spear being propelled by tons of water, hurtling down a spray of ocean water … it sometimes is an unfortunate reality that we surfers may occasionally collide with other ocean dwellers. It’s inevitable, it’s painful and it is something that we all have been a part of (as hurtler or hurtlee, either way, it hurts!) in the water. However, by not observing proper ocean rules and good etiquette, we could endanger other people and creatures in the water more than we need to! An inattentive surfer and a careless surfer can be equally dangerous out in the water, so don’t hit people inadvertently by not being aware of the rules and proper water manners! AND WHEN YOU DO get to the point where you hit someone or ALMOST hit someone, do the right thing and ensure that you say “sorry” no matter who was at fault. At the end, we all have to learn to take care of each other out there!

Live a balanced life: As participants on a lovely dance between board and water, balance is always weighted heavily in our minds. Balance. But there’s more to it, since surfing alone cannot fulfill us. We need play, work, love, life, and learning to round us off … always. Even when the waves are good, we need to know the balance as to when good is something we need or something we are blessed with. I know surfers in the Great Lakes area who WAIT months and months at a time for ONE wave to come, and they revel in it with such joy and pleasure when it comes. I also know of surfers who curse surf sessions in Hawaii when they do not catch all the waves they can at a surf break or if they don’t get perfect chest to head high waves all the time. Balance. (It also needs to be placed with ‘perspective’ eh?)

Be aware of wonder: Touch the water … feel the ocean. Be amazed at the beauty around you! After one particularly uneventful surf session, where I caught half a wave that debatably actually caught me, I was murmuring to myself how the session had been barely worth my time. At that point, a giant green turtle popped it’s head out of the water – as if on cue – and made me laugh in a startled surprise. He was reminding me to never take myself too seriously, and that beauty, especially in the ocean was not just in the waves. Sometimes, we all need a reminder … So Fulghum the wise clergy was right all along.

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Sure, you often see beginner surfers out in the break being pushed into waves by surf school instructors, and they do catch waves with giant smiles on their faces … BUT the real work comes when you don’t have anyone pushing you into a breaking wave anymore and you have to work for each hard-earned wave. Once on your own, you have to earn each aching muscle with every paddle into a wave; building up stamina as you go. And if you are lucky enough, you may overhear the energizing cheer of “Paddle! Paddle! Paddle!” from somewhere nearby, a hopeful sound from some regulars at the line up, providing you with spiritual support and some tough love. It’s a call for more effort, more drive, and a whole lot of muscle!

To help you build those crucial paddle-centric muscles, iJustSurf.com has put together a quick set of 3 important exercises that will get you pumped and ready for hours of paddling readiness!

1. Push Ups: The grand-daddy of obvious exercises, this simple but effective workout builds chest muscles and shoulder strength that give you a great boost in paddling into waves. Since a majority of work when paddling happens in and around your shoulders, push ups are crucial for building a strong support system for your paddling guns! Push-up exercise, if performed correctly, increases upper body strength and brings about more abdominal and hip stability, a definite plus in surfing!
2. Chair Dips: This is an excellent overall exercise to do for building core surfing muscles. Simple and easy, dips force you to lift your own body-weight, which in turn stresses your upper-body, which builds muscle. Much of the “power” that drives you into a wave is from the balanced and strong strokes supported by your triceps. By strengthening these muscles as well as your core, dips ensure a longer and more steady stroke rhythm for those surf sessions!
3. Vinyasa Flow: That’s right, it’s a yoga sequence of moves that focuses on strengthening your core surf muscles, taking the form of smooth and flowing breath-synchronized movements! Starting with plank pose (similar to the static push up pose and then lowering your body), then cobra pose, you work your way into downward dog, and then repeat the sequence from plank pose.  You will see your paddling as well as surf “pop-up” become smoother and faster, and become more graceful in no time!

Remember to take your time with these exercises, ensuring that you are easing yourself into the routine; working your way into a steadily increasing set of repetitions! Surfing muscles are quite different from other muscles, often requiring you to use sets of muscle groups you have never used in conjunction before!

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