
“For me, why you surf is more important than how you surf” – Nathan Oldfield, Seaworthy. I think about the reef and how the wave forms a bowl over and around it. I know where to sit on my board and wait, taking my bearing from the sucky rock. Sections close fast going right at [...]
November 15, 2010 | Posted in
Surfer's Log |
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As I thought about it more, I noticed there were correlations between surfing and blogging that I wanted to point out and hopefully allow up and coming bloggers to benefit from the power of catching their first “wave”. So without further ado, here is my 6 step guide for getting up on your board. Enjoy! [...]
October 21, 2010 | Posted in
Surfer's Log |
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After a long dry spell, I am finally back in the water! I managed to get myself out to Alii Beach (see my experiences at this break here and here) for a session with a lineup of virtual strangers, but we made conversation while out on the water. The waves were pretty small, which made [...]
April 23, 2010 | Posted in
New Surfer Diary |
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The recent 10 to 16 foot waves that pounded Maine’s coastline as a result of category 1 Hurricane Bill seemed to serve as a beacon to surfers from all over the Eastern seaboard. Although there were unfortunate casualties that resulted from nature’s romp through the east coast, it seems that the old addage that a [...]
April 2, 2010 | Posted in
Surfer's Log |
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So you think you want to surf eh? Great! Welcome to the fray, surfer brother or surfer sister … but know that many people never make it past the initial stage of learning to stand up on a board, and few make it to reaching the goal of actually surfing a wave for the “stoke”. [...]
March 18, 2010 | Posted in
Learning to Surf |
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Who can afford a quiver anymore? Gone are the days of the $200 bro-deal. The $400 factory shape now goes for closer to $600. The handcrafted, resin-tinted single-fin that we all yearn for goes for upwards of $800, $1,200, or $1,400. We’re still surfers, right? And as surfers we don’t have $1,400 to pay for [...]
March 9, 2010 | Posted in
Learning to Surf |
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