You may indeed have stumbled across the existential crisis which faces all dedicated surfers at some point in their lives: “How does a dedicated surfer balance love, responsibility, and relationships with a surf lifestyle?” It’s the great risk which comes with any great passion: that one day, your passion will ask too much of you, [...]
Surfing is as much about passion as it is about any one emotion. Certainly, there is the love of the sport which begins as respect for the mere physical act. There is the adulation experienced when catching a nice wave and riding it successfully. Often times there is the excited burst of energy that comes [...]
“A goal is not always meant to be reached, it often serves simply as something to aim at.” Goals serve as something to aim for, so don’t get too hung up on reaching them. Focus on enjoying the journey and the process. If you’re hiking on a beautiful trail, your goal is to get to your [...]
Surfers seem happier, healthier, and most of all younger than most people … if not physically, then definitely in spirit and passion. According to most surfers, the mystical bond that a surfer has with mother ocean and their surfboard is almost impossible to explain to those who do not surf – that not many activities [...]
This may sound like an over simplification, but there is no greater truth out in the open ocean: happy surfers all share similar (if not the same) happy habits. It’s as simple as that. The happiest surfers I know share seven very obvious habits. If you’re looking to expand your general happiness, you may consider [...]
Meet Sissy and Lois. Two women who do not know each other, and for all intent and purpose will not ever meet each other. But they are bound together by surfing, and how it has affected their lives. Learning to surf is serious business for Sissy … she approaches it with much excitement and methodical [...]
My recent surf session was a great success! I paddled out not so enthusiastically about going, but I am after all still on my voyage to attaining surf passion … I paddled out and caught the very first wave that came across my path, surprisingly even before I could even sit up to wait around [...]
My first surf session at Puaena Point was a challenge – not able to catch waves and difficulty popping up. The waves were not powerful enough, and I didn’t have paddle strength to drop in. This particular outing, I ventured to Haleiwa’s famous Ali’i Beach and caught all the waves, because they had more power. Perhaps [...]
