I’ve always wondered how you quit surfing. I know it’s possible; I just don’t think I could do it. I’ve seen others drop the sport without much struggle, yet I’m not sure I quite understand the circumstances or physiology required to walk away from the ocean. In Steven Kotler’s West Of Jesus: Surfing, Science and [...]
Only a few of us are lucky enough to say that we live within driving distance of a beach. With this luxury comes knowledge from years of experience combing the beaches (during the on- and off-season) to know the unwritten rules while you are at the beach. Check out my top five tips if you’re [...]
Beginning surfers often quietly share with me that they feel like giving up on the sport altogether, often due to the perception that they “just can’t seem to get it right“. Although I know plenty of surfers that would revel in the reduction of numbers in the lineup as a result of “learning-fallout”, it needs [...]
The other day I took a stroll to all of my favorite think spots. For a surfer, naturally, the optimal place to ponder in peace is the beach. While allowing me to check the surf at the same time, the beach is a very beautiful creation of nature. Being in one of those introspective moods [...]
Surfing legend Laird Hamilton says the ocean is one of the greatest teachers. “Simple laws and philosophies can be traced to the purity of the ocean,” says Hamilton, who created tow-in surfing, in which surfers are towed like water skiers into massive waves. This year, the 44-year-old dives into some new waters. His clothing line [...]
I pray to be like the ocean … with soft currents … maybe waves at times. More and more, I want the consistency rather than the highs and the lows. – Drew Barrymore
You’re out there, having a fun and great time, enjoying the warm feel of the sun on your slowly darkening cheeks, and relishing the cool splash of ocean water about your face. You smile knowingly, hearing your friends are nearby, hooting and hollering as wave after fun wave rolls in … truly a surfer’s dream come [...]
