Some days, it all just works. Some days it feels right. You have flow, inspiration, motivation, enthusiasm, energy and it all comes easily and without effort. Your ideas, thoughts, excitement, heart, mind and body all spill out through your fingers, hands and feet. They move out through the things you create and easily become lines, [...]
Surfing has been mythologized in many cultures, and with good reason. From an athleticism standpoint, it’s an incredibly difficult sport and requires someone to be in pretty decent shape just to learn. To be truly good at surfing one has to be in peak athletic condition, and to do it as much as possible. It’s [...]
You never know what Mother Nature can and will do. After these many years of surfing, I have never experienced two surf days (or sessions) that were alike! I love picking up my board, I love packing my wax, towel, and wetsuit, I love the smell of the ocean, I love feeling the wet sand between my toes, [...]
I haven’t been surfing regularly, more like sporadically, but I remember a few things to share – a surf-condensed version of the past month or so … People don’t like to surf when it is choppy because it is tiring as hell. It’s just not the same … having to paddle more to stay in [...]
Surf movies are an integral part of surf culture, they are what helps to give surfing a presence outside of the sport’s own followers (for example Endless Summer and Big Wednesday) whilst stoking the fire to get in the water for even the most seasoned surfer (The Modern Collective, The Momentum Series etc). So the question [...]
During my last surf session, in my quest to improve as a surfer, I came across a pleasant issue. As I am beginning to ride longer waves, as well as playing around with turning and moving up and down on the long board … I have noticed the rail (the side of the surfboard) dips [...]
My recent surf session was a great success! I paddled out not so enthusiastically about going, but I am after all still on my voyage to attaining surf passion … I paddled out and caught the very first wave that came across my path, surprisingly even before I could even sit up to wait around [...]
