You may indeed have stumbled across the existential crisis which faces all dedicated surfers at some point in their lives:
“How does a dedicated surfer balance love, responsibility, and relationships with a surf lifestyle?”
It’s the great risk which comes with any great passion: that one day, your passion will ask too much of you, will be [...]
Some people might like bacon, but I, I love bacon. Sure, I’ve loved before, and I love now, but not the way I love bacon. My bacon-love is unconditional. My initial past loves had been failures— mainly because of my unforgiving expectations. But somehow, bacon’s found a way to my heart despite the hurtful things [...]
Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you’ve done it. – by Paul Strauch … Leonard Lueras’ Surfing Hawaii
Recently a friend of mine said he just didn’t feel like surfing anymore. Waking up early for dawn patrol has been a daily ritual in his life for the past few years. Now, suddenly, he doesn’t feel like it anymore?
Perhaps it has gotten too routine for him. Maybe he isn’t pushing himself in the water. [...]
I was strolling about the mall one early February day – name any one of today’s mall strips, they seem to be generically interchangeable these days – and I saw this giant poster for Valentines Day and chocolates … then a poster for Diamonds and Valentines Day … love in every form and shape; you [...]
Although my dating days have been over for more than I care to admit, and the general stage that the romantic scene is showcased upon has undergone massive upgrades in terms of the “how” and “what”, the memories of those days continue to live strong and fresh in my mind. Or at least, they were [...]
Many years ago I had an extra-special surfboard. It wasn’t custom shaped or designed specifically for me. It was just a stock board from a local surf shop chain. But there was something about this board.
First of all, it was and still is one of the most beautiful boards I have ever seen. The colors [...]
