You may indeed have stumbled across the existential crisis which faces all dedicated surfers at some point in their lives: “How does a dedicated surfer balance love, responsibility, and relationships with a surf lifestyle?” It’s the great risk which comes with any great passion: that one day, your passion will ask too much of you, [...]
I love this quote, and it speaks to me at this present moment … for right now, I am being tossed around in the “sudsy” goodness of a rather large sized wave as it pummels me into the washing machione cycle of the ocean. It’s all about constantly being in the now; knowing you don’t [...]
Is it true that expectations can only bring pain? And expectations only bring disappointment? Don’t expect much so that you are thrilled with what little you get? Those thoughts ran through my head as the events of my life unfolded in front of me. Negativity and sadness begot more negativity and sadness. Then a friend [...]
On Friday, I went for my first surf in a month. It was wonderful! I went with some friends – Noe, Nat and Rich. We turned up at the only viable spot, where it was breaking one to two foot. It was small, but the waves were lovely and clean and they were breaking all [...]
I have a very hard time making decisions. Most of the major decisions in my life, where I went to junior college, university, who I have dated, where I live, have been made at the last minute without much thought as to why, just with feeling or reaction. Whenever I get stuck inside my head, [...]
For the second time in my life, the person I recently broke up with is moving. Just as suddenly as the first time, there is no reason or explanation, just a frenzied rush to get out of where they are. They say the will be quitting their job, selling their house, and heading out to [...]
Some people might like bacon, but I, I love bacon. Sure, I’ve loved before, and I love now, but not the way I love bacon. My bacon-love is unconditional. My initial past loves had been failures— mainly because of my unforgiving expectations. But somehow, bacon’s found a way to my heart despite the hurtful things [...]
Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you’ve done it. – by Paul Strauch … Leonard Lueras’ Surfing Hawaii
Recently a friend of mine said he just didn’t feel like surfing anymore. Waking up early for dawn patrol has been a daily ritual in his life for the past few years. Now, suddenly, he doesn’t feel like it anymore? Perhaps it has gotten too routine for him. Maybe he isn’t pushing himself in the [...]
I was strolling about the mall one early February day – name any one of today’s mall strips, they seem to be generically interchangeable these days – and I saw this giant poster for Valentines Day and chocolates … then a poster for Diamonds and Valentines Day … love in every form and shape; you [...]
Although my dating days have been over for more than I care to admit, and the general stage that the romantic scene is showcased upon has undergone massive upgrades in terms of the “how” and “what”, the memories of those days continue to live strong and fresh in my mind. Or at least, they were [...]
Many years ago I had an extra-special surfboard. It wasn’t custom shaped or designed specifically for me. It was just a stock board from a local surf shop chain. But there was something about this board. First of all, it was and still is one of the most beautiful boards I have ever seen. The [...]
