
You may indeed have stumbled across the existential crisis which faces all dedicated surfers at some point in their lives:
“How does a dedicated surfer balance love, responsibility, and relationships with a surf lifestyle?”
It’s the great risk which comes with any great passion: that one day, your passion will ask too much of you, will be [...]
March 8, 2010 | Posted in
Learning to Surf |
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Some people might like bacon, but I, I love bacon. Sure, I’ve loved before, and I love now, but not the way I love bacon. My bacon-love is unconditional. My initial past loves had been failures— mainly because of my unforgiving expectations. But somehow, bacon’s found a way to my heart despite the hurtful things [...]
March 1, 2010 | Posted in
H20 Wahines |
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Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you’ve done it. – by Paul Strauch … Leonard Lueras’ Surfing Hawaii
November 27, 2009 | Posted in
Mini-Posts |
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Recently a friend of mine said he just didn’t feel like surfing anymore. Waking up early for dawn patrol has been a daily ritual in his life for the past few years. Now, suddenly, he doesn’t feel like it anymore?
Perhaps it has gotten too routine for him. Maybe he isn’t pushing himself in the water. [...]
September 25, 2009 | Posted in
H20 Wahines |
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I was strolling about the mall one early February day – name any one of today’s mall strips, they seem to be generically interchangeable these days – and I saw this giant poster for Valentines Day and chocolates … then a poster for Diamonds and Valentines Day … love in every form and shape; you [...]
September 20, 2009 | Posted in
Home Break |
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Although my dating days have been over for more than I care to admit, and the general stage that the romantic scene is showcased upon has undergone massive upgrades in terms of the “how” and “what”, the memories of those days continue to live strong and fresh in my mind. Or at least, they were [...]
July 24, 2009 | Posted in
Home Break |
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Many years ago I had an extra-special surfboard. It wasn’t custom shaped or designed specifically for me. It was just a stock board from a local surf shop chain. But there was something about this board.
First of all, it was and still is one of the most beautiful boards I have ever seen. The colors [...]
July 12, 2009 | Posted in
Home Break |
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