A surfer’s wish this holiday season eh? ‘That’s easy’ you say with a Grinch-like grin! No, dear friends, it is not for a bigger quiver of surfboards or a surf break alone to myself every dawn session (although those things are quite desirable too!). It has been many years since I have indulged in that [...]
“For me, why you surf is more important than how you surf” – Nathan Oldfield, Seaworthy. I think about the reef and how the wave forms a bowl over and around it. I know where to sit on my board and wait, taking my bearing from the sucky rock. Sections close fast going right at [...]
A few years ago I spent a year living in Hawaii on Oahu. I was going through a rough patch…the adage “release that which no longer serves you” was an elusive intangible notion that I wasn’t ready to apply to my life. I took up surfing, longboarding to be exact. I was more into the [...]
A few days ago I was waiting at the water’s edge for a break in the swell, trying to organise my timing so I could get out past the massive wash that was about to hinder me as I paddled out. The swell was solid and the sweep was still really strong and there were [...]
Surfing is about good times, good friends, and good waves. Unless of course it means that more people will show up at your ‘secret’ surf spot, right? We took an informal poll amongst serious and week-end warrior surfers and the verdict is in … surfers love surfing and laughing merrily with their friends in the [...]
(… above is a great clip of the king of longboarding, and undisputed style master, Joel Tudor, showing us how it’s done!) … My name is Kaya, and I am a longboarder. Up until the arrival of stand-up paddle boards, longboarders were looked upon by most shortboarders as wave hogs and dangerous log riders in [...]
I have a more than healthy respect for salt water, currents, rips, tides, storms, waves, gutters, schools of fish (flocks of birds), and scary conditions. I learned my limits and I learned that you are never quite in control. I learned that there are risks.
For the surfer who loves the feel of fresh wax, likes the look of a clean surfboard, or just are absolutely meticulous about their surf wax methodology (ahem) … let me introduce you to the Pickle, a chemical-free wax remover. Used by surfboard repair people for years as a method to remove wax from a [...]
During my last surf session, in my quest to improve as a surfer, I came across a pleasant issue. As I am beginning to ride longer waves, as well as playing around with turning and moving up and down on the long board … I have noticed the rail (the side of the surfboard) dips [...]
Yesterday was a short but sweet session. I managed to Squeeze in ’bout 20 minutes. I didn’t know why da heck I was going out for such a short time … but well worth it. I had more success during yesterday’s session than the longer one the day before. In case I haven’t mentioned this [...]
So you think you want to surf eh? Great! Welcome to the fray, surfer brother or surfer sister … but know that many people never make it past the initial stage of learning to stand up on a board, and few make it to reaching the goal of actually surfing a wave for the “stoke”. [...]
Keep these tips in mind while you’re learning to surf and you’ll be shredding it up sooner then you ever imagined! Have the Right Gear : Make sure you have the right surfboard and and a properly fitting wetsuit (or trunks) when you are first learning to surf. Even though the pros on TV and [...]
Who can afford a quiver anymore? Gone are the days of the $200 bro-deal. The $400 factory shape now goes for closer to $600. The handcrafted, resin-tinted single-fin that we all yearn for goes for upwards of $800, $1,200, or $1,400. We’re still surfers, right? And as surfers we don’t have $1,400 to pay for [...]
We obviously like Recycled Records for the simple fact that it prevents more garbage from getting dumped into the land fills, but it also performs a crucial function in reducing waste in other areas not necessarily attached to the land fills.
Yesterday I went surfing with some friends. We were all on mals, including Bruce, who I had only just met. Bruce surfs a lot, but this was the first time he’d ever ridden a longboard! As we dried off and changed back at our cars, I asked him if he enjoyed it? Yeah! It was [...]
