A surfer’s wish this holiday season eh? ‘That’s easy’ you say with a Grinch-like grin! No, dear friends, it is not for a bigger quiver of surfboards or a surf break alone to myself every dawn session (although those things are quite desirable too!). It has been many years since I have indulged in that [...]
As surfers, we see life from a very unique and enviable place – the ocean waves. This place we call home, where the waves break into wonderful surf, allows most surfers to look at our regular lives from a distance. On a regular basis, we leave our scholastic, personal, and professional lives on an invisible [...]
One of the most common things you’ll hear a surfer say when asked about how much time they spend in the water is “Of course I surf every day that I can, it keeps you from going nuts.” True, There is an entirely spiritual and zen side to the sport of surfing that gives us [...]
What is it about surfers? Relaxed, easy-going, they seem to be the epitome of “chill”. Although movies have streotyped surfers as lazy and as hapless potheads, the surfers of today are all but stereotypical. Look at today’s line-up and you will see doctors, lawyers, professionals, teachers … all kinds! The thing that makes them surfers [...]
For as long as I can remember I have had very vivid dreams. Sometimes disturbing nightmares that wake me in the middle of night, some blissful images of intense happiness and some just random scenes that don’t seem to make sense. Even though they can vary greatly I have always felt blessed that I can [...]
It’s not about how to achieve your dreams. It’s about how to lead your life. If you lead your life the right way, the karma will take care of itself. The dreams will come to you. - Randy Pausch, author of “The Last Lecture”
There’s a blue-and-white sticker on the door of Room 513 in the dormitory at Union Theological Seminary, an imposing institution of Gothic design. “Life Is Better When You Surf,” it says. Mary Setterholm moved from Hermosa Beach to New York six weeks ago to begin a new life in her mid 50s, but there are things [...]
This is not surfing related, but a personal rant, so enjoy : The best thing about being a newbie or a transplant anywhere, is that you immediately are awarded a privilege to reinvent yourself … pretend that you are someone else – different from who you were back home – and from a rather removed stand [...]
Inside every adult lurks a graduation speaker dying to get out, some world-weary pundit eager to pontificate on life to young people who’d rather be Rollerblading. Most of us, alas, will never be invited to sow our words of wisdom among an audience of caps and gowns, but there’s no reason we can’t entertain ourselves [...]
So I write, occasionally. Whatever comes to mind. Sometimes the thoughts just flow and end up becoming a story. Other times I take individual thoughts and string them together in an attempt to draw a line between two completely differently worlds and look like a genius or an intellectual. Either way, in the end, the [...]
I used to live the corporate life. Sure, there is nothing really stunning about that fact, hundreds of thousands of people live the same life on a daily basis without much incident. And although I am not the first, nor will I be the last … I have left the world of corporate living and [...]
It seemed like a horribly good idea at the time … … since the predicted 20 to 40 mph winds did not arrive. It seemed like such a smart idea! Even as the rain poured mercilessly on my board and I while we walked down the path to the beach, the slight glimmer of sunshine [...]
