It is a fun sport … which accounts for all those people lugging their waxed-up sticks to the ocean on a regular basis. There is no doubt that it is fun! The booming water sport attracts hundreds upon hundreds of new people to the ocean on a daily basis, luring them with the promise of the next greatest sport to try. And people come in droves, happily donning surf gear and paddling out into the clear blue … after all, like you said, “how hard could it be?”.

This is Step 1 in Learning to Surf: thorough research! How hard surfing will be for any beginner depends on how thorough your research is about surfing, and how much research you do regarding equipment suited for you and your surf breaks. Before you even get in the water … before you even wax your first board … it is important that you understand some of the surfing basics.

Surfing basics are easier to discover for beginner surfers with the help of knowledgeable surfers, namely from a reputable surf school or a non-retail oriented surf shop. After you have exhausted resources from the internet and on-line articles about surfing, and especially after you have frustrated friends who surf with a million-and-one questions … the surf school instructor or surf shop expert is the next line of information. Their information will be especially useful since they have the inside track on local breaks and local surfers … something internet research may not provide for you!

By being open to what surf instructors and surf shop experts have to reveal to you, what type of gear you may eventually get, and the types of breaks you begin to surf may vary. In any event, being an open person and listening to the people who know the surf community will lead you to a rich research experience and get you on your way to the next step in learning to surf!

As a final word to starting your research, do not buy into surf fads and jump on the surf industry’s commercial assault of the surf community. You do not need the biggest, baddest, newest, or greatest. You just need an open mind, a caring heart, and a sense of adventure and fun!

…

At some point and time during the learning process, most of us have voiced the desire to chuck it all and quit. Some long-time surfers have seen their surfing skill development flat line periodically because they are concerned with looking “stupid” trying to learn new things. Pro surfers even leave the sport altogether in defiance of the popular expectation of what surfing should be like. As beginners, the feeling of  ”giving up the sport” often arises from letting your own expectations, and at times the expectations of others, to override what surfing is (and should be) all about: learning.

And fun. Learning and fun. The fun in learning.

If you place things in perspective, the most incredible thing about surfing is that there is no right or wrong way! You can go out into the lineup and get hammered by a wave, and another, and another … even dragged underwater for a bit, but you check yourself and then catch a good wave. All is good again, and you have learned something about yourself, the waves, and determination.

That’s right, beginning surfers, determination! The fact that you are out there in the middle of the ocean, participating in one of the hardest sports around is a testament to your determination. Surfing does not discriminate; it does not care about your heritage or financial bottom line, your color, race , or creed. Surfing takes on all comers, and allows your inner spirit to come out.

Every wave is different, every break offers new experiences, and every moment dares you to be great. It’s just you and your inner self working the water over and iver again, looking for the next new thing to learn about the ocean and yourself.

One of the best lessons that surfing taught me that I often share with people is mired in the idea of control. The ocean is in control, period. The ocean is your master out there, and you are but a speck to be done with as it pleases … and most surfers that have learned this understand the momentary notion of “not getting it“. There is nothing to get … there is no right or wrong … just you and surfing. Once you admit this and actually accept it, the more enjoyable your surfing experiences will become.

So stop “trying” to surf … stop trying to fit yourself into some pre-determined mold that you may have gotten yourself into about what surfing should look like. Stop worrying how you look out in the water, and whether or not someone saw you get trashed by that last wave that rolled in. WE ALL HAVE HAD THAT HAPPEN TOO! Just get out there, stick to your guns and determined spirit and paddle back out. You never know when the next wave will be the good wave … but you can only catch it if you are out there looking for it!

…

Most beginning surfers and new surfers may overlook the importance of the simple act of paddling, dismissing it as a means to an end. And while that may be true to some degree – since all we really want to do is ’surf’ – paddling is a vital part of being a stronger surfer in longer sessions. Paddling is what gets you to the line up, and it is what gets you into a wave. And although paddling looks easy enough when you watch experienced surfers, it has some distinct nuances that can make or break you as a surfer.

• The first point to realize about paddling is that it can be surfboard specific. You need to be able to find the specific “sweet spot” of your own board. Think of this spot as the paddling equivalent of a cross-hair on the surface of your surfboard. While in the water (sorry folks, land practice doesn’t work here!) and lying on top of your surfboard, your center of balance should be evenly distributed down the middle – usually along the stringer. If you don’t have a stringer or it has been designed over, your sweet spot can be easily found – you will know you are too far forward if the nose of the board is underwater, or too far back if the nose is more than an inch or two out of the water. Left and right balance will work itself out as you find your paddle improving!
• Now that you have found your sweet spot, you need to concentrate on how to better propel your surfboard forward. Although finding your sweet spot will involve paddling and propelling forward as well, the specific act of propelling yourself forward has some physical nuances. The biggest challenge for beginners in propelling forward – so you can out paddle other surfers in the line up! – is building the back and shoulder muscles to a point where you can easily arch your back continuously for extended periods of time. You will need to arch your back and use your arms to properly achieve planing and gain speed, as arching your back helps maintain your weight over the center of the board.

The aches and pain that you will experience after the first several sessions will be challenging, but you will build up enough muscle and get to a point where your back and ribs will not hurt as quickly into a session!

• Propelling yourself forward will require using the water as resistance for your hands, so make sure that you are taking long, deep strokes into the water. Try to keep your paddle as close to the sides of the surfboard as much as possible to reduce drag, and make sure your fingers are not spread apart. The best method is to keep your fingers together, and your hands slightly cupped.
• Although strictly a personal choice, paddling slightly under your board – rather than out and away from the board – in a sweeping motion will proper you more effectively and smoothly through the water as it reduced the overall surface area you are affecting on the water. However,  depending on the width of your board and length of your arms, doing this may be difficult.

The overall goal of training yourself for paddling is to give you better control of your surfboard as you paddle out into the lineup and into a wave. The more you practice, the better you get! On days when it’s too small to surf, practice paddling to build up your muscles and stamina, and you will be on your way to arching that back to more, and better waves.

…

Long term newbies must not only learn about the physical and mental nuances of riding a surfboard, but they must also understand the effect that their surfing has on other surfers, in addition to how their beginning style and mannerisms fit into the particular culture at any given “new” break. Where to sit at the lineup, where beginners should sit, and the etiquette obeyed by surfers at that specific break are just some of the finer points of what to look for … long term newbies need to figure out how to fit in, and present themselves as an informed new comer. Someone to be welcomed, and not shunned due to the danger they present.

Consult some surfers in your local surf breaks, and almost all of them can name (often in unison) a handful of surfers that they regard as dangerous or potentially dangerous. By watching carefully at specific line ups, you can often spot surfers that are repeatedly avoided by the regulars during takeoff. Although never thoroughly ostracized, they are clearly not welcomed into the fray. Often times, these surfers are clearly snaking waves, dropping in on other surfers, or just plain out endangering others. Look carefully, you can spot these “surf dangers” easily and quickly.

The long term newbie needs lessons, this is a fact. And if not the slick surf lesson hawking hucksters at tourist spots, then who?

The key is something that we all learned long ago, in kindergarten. Look and listen; Dick and Jane knew this right from the start. LOOK at the surf breaks when you paddle out; try to look more than trying to surf immediately. Look at what regulars do before they surf, look at how they paddle out and through which areas, look at the break and find peaks and shoulders that surfers sit at, look at what surfers do and how they do it.

And then there is LISTEN. Seek out a number of local surf instructors and ask them questions about etiquette and manners in the line up. Often times, they view this as respect for the lifestyle and the surfer, a nod to their abilities and their playground. After all, you are discovering how to better interact with them … not clumsily stomping through their home turf. Listen to their stories, because somewhere within the encrypted stories and warnings are the tell tale signs of what to do and what NOT to do at their break, or other breaks.

If you can look and listen to the wisdom within those surfers’ stories, then yours is the ocean and all that is in it. Go forth and LOOK newbie surfer … and LISTEN. The waves are calling, and you just may be a long term newbie making your way up to a regular at some break, where that fun-loving bunch will welcome you with open arms, and a lot of hooting and hollering!

This post is the second in a 2 part article about newbie / beginner surfers, surf school instructors, and the art of surfing. Part 1 is located here .

…

These simple rules dance in my head as a code for life. They remind me to be light-hearted during every surf session- on the beach before paddling out, as I’m gliding carelessly down the wave, and when I ride the last one in. They say to me that surfing can be unique, spiritual, and that I’ll never stop learning from our Mother Ocean.

There are particular moments, dream-like glimpses of other events in life that I’ll never forget. They are the milestones, epiphanies, and pillars of my surfing career. Whether they are the wise words of mentors or the visual memories forever etched in my mind, they provide me with the encouragement and inspiration that has kept my passion for teaching, surfing, and adventure alive for nearly a decade.

So you want to try surfing? You’ve had dreams about it since you were a young girl? You have a subscription to Surfer magazine and seen Blue Crush 100 times? You live in Washington DC, but wear surf attire year round? Well, what’s stopping you? Afraid?

Make a move, you’ll never regret it, promise. How could you possibly regret something so fresh and exciting, a new challenge that gives you a unique perspective into yourself and your capabilities?

You have fears and that’s healthy, so let‘s talk about how to relieve those pre-surf jitters. Here are a few simple pieces of advice for stepping out of your safety net.

First things first. Pick a place you’ve never been, a destination you’ve always dreamed about. Of course, make sure there is surf. Next, take a lesson with someone qualified. I’m a firm believer in hiring the right person for the job. Utilize your teacher’s well of knowledge. Ask all your questions. Share your anxieties. It’ll help when you know exactly what you’re up against and what you can expect while in the water. Believe me, I’ve been there and can understand how you feel.

My golden rule: Relax. Remember it’s just water and you aren’t learning unless you’re falling.

Let go of any preconceived notions of what surfing should look like and what it should feel like. Lose the idea that there’s a specific place you need to go. Trust yourself and your instructor. Literally, go with the flow. Play. Surfing will always offer something new every time you paddle out.

I won’t sugar coat it. I’ve kiteboarded, windsurfed, skied, and mountain biked, but surfing is the most challenging sport I’ve ever done. It’s also offers the most liberating, healthy, and rewarding lifestyle and a joyful and free-spirited community.

So get out there. There’s a whole ocean to discover and a lifestyle to embrace. ‘Hang loose’, ‘get stoked’ and grab what’s there for you. The sea is a magnificent place, so share the experience with someone who has the same love of the ocean, your surf instructor.

[by Morag Sewell, Head Surf Instructor at Las Olas Surf safaris for women]

Learning to surf is serious business for Sissy … she approaches it with much excitement and methodical analysis. From day one, when she decided to paddle out into the great blue on her own, atop a much-used and at times abused beater of a surfboard, without so much as a lesson or previous surfing experience … she knew she was onto something that would latch onto her spirit with passion and nagging fury.

Surfing has become a chore for Lois after ten years of surfing on and off … used as an occasional escape from her 9-to-5 going-nowhere-career and floundering social life. Surfing as a lifestyle passion has slipped from her daily living as she logs more time in the office taking care of her job rather than her well-being. Fear of losing her job has prevented her from going to her morning surf sessions, and weekend work has been all but time consuming.

I know both these women, living incredibly opposed lifestyles and systems of belief … likened to different sides of the same coin.

Sissy has embraced her fears and has begun to blossom into someone willing to take personal risks to pursue what she loves, regardless of what people may say. She knows where she needs to be and is willing to make mistakes to get there. In stark contrast is Lois … slowly sinking into the depths of her fears and worries, losing touch with what has made her truly beautiful in the past. She is waiting desperately for someone or something to rescue her from the mire she has been trapped in, fearing the unknown and dreading the present.

I know both these women because I was each one of them at some point and time in my life. I was Lois not so long ago, caught in a swirl of excuses and justifications as to why I was unwilling to be the woman I needed to be. The surfer I so desperately wanted to become. The big waves pounding in from the outside forced me to retreat to the safety of the inside ripples … at times, even worst, all the way to shore.

But Lois gave way to Sissy very quickly once I told myself that I deserved to be out in the bigger waves … where I could glide happily (and at times nervously!) into the waves that made me truly happy. Lois peeled away to give birth to Sissy, who was still afraid at times but no longer content to sit there and be an unwilling victim to her fears. Sissy who paddled out into bigger waves that pounded her mercifully at times, but continued on with the knowledge that there was something better on the other side.

Lois and Sissy are my inspiration on a daily basis now … not just Sissy with her brave boldness and willingness to forage on, but also Lois in her quiet despair. I am inspired to ensure that Lois does not become the anchor that holds Sissy back ever again … they both deserve to slide into those beautiful waves in the ocean, and into those beautiful moments in living a strong and purposeful life.

Life was not given to us to be filled with regrets. Opportunities await you and can be more fun than you ever imagined if you’ll simply take the chance. Take advantage of those opportunities and have a blast. What good can possibly come from saying you never tried? – author unknown

In case I haven’t mentioned this yet, I have a hand-me-down performance longboard, and have been told that it may not be the best to learn on – apparently, the shape and rocker on it requires more experience. But hell when you get it for free from your older bro, you work with what you got! And I knew I could do it.

My experienced big wave surfer friend saw it and said “Girl you scored! I can rip on this!” That says a lot don’t it?

My very first day out on this board I immediately noticed what balance it required .. as just laying on it to paddle caused me  to wobble back and forth. Just sitting up on it waiting for waves was also wobbly, and a few times I got so off balanced that I flipped off the surfboard and into the ocean. Yeah wiping out when no waves around, gotta luv it.

The best was feeling like I was  bull riding as I floated over the waves. Yee haw, ride em cowgirl! (Ever heard that saying “Cowgirl up!”? That’s me on a surf board toughing it out on my bull riding board.) Imagine the sight of that one out there.

So yesterday, while paddling out I noticed how stable I was. When I got out to my point of sitting up…stable. Well what do you know…no more bull riding. Maybe I’ll take that up after mastering this surfing thing.

And that last issue of how to deal with oncoming waves as I paddle out? I kind of decided to take the “Jackass” approach to it. You know those crazy guys that do those unthinkable stunts on that cable show. I saw a few episodes and some were great laughs, while others were just head shakers of disbelief. Anyway, I actually decided to channel that energy, just a little, in dealing with those waves. I got some power from it as I had a wave break right in front of me, I powered through it with my “Jackass” mentality and dipped the nose of the board and just braced for it like a football lineman and bam! … came out the back unscathed.

Now mind you these are just itty bitty waves in comparison to the “real” waves. BUT I harnessed a productive fearlessness from the “Jackass” dudes with more prudence of course.  I also did a proper pop up on the board on my first wave. So in terms of this short session .. a lot gained and no dismissing short sessions for lack of time. Squeeze it in, it will be worth it!

My turns are getting better. I used to boogie board and it was easy to whip that board around on your belly but those skegs make it more difficult.  I had to inquire on how to do this, and found out that I need to be sitting towards the rear of the surfboard, and then dip the back of the board down into the water – literally lifting most of the surfboard out of the water,  and then use your legs to make egg beater kicks to turn around. Eventually, you can pick up the board, swing it around and go without the kicks! A surfer friend pointed out additional tricks like grabbing the rail of the surfboard with one hand and pulling the board in the direction of that hand, egg beater feet and use other free hand to paddle in the direction you are turning. Little details helped.

Oh, regarding the issue of whether you can duck dive a longboard … apparently a common question, as a newer surfers than myself have asked this same question of me. Not really a good option or possibility with longboards.  You need to dip the nose of the surfboard into the water, straighten your arms up like  in yoga when doing up dog, THEN let the wave pass between your surfboardboard and body, and then do a move that seems like a little hop with the legs, only to to end in a position which I can only describe as a breakdance move called the worm. I guess the hop is an option as it takes a bit of your energy out of you, but fun nonetheless to do.

Turtling – a move to break through waves with a longboard –  was funny; sounds easier than it is. For the bigger white wash that you go over, you flip your surfboard over and let wave pass over you. Little details in that also! During my first flip, I was underwater and hit my head on the board trying to pull the board down. But instead, I pulled myself up to the board and hit my head.  ’Kay that didn’t feel right.

Or the other time I forgot to take a breath before going under. As soon as I got under I realized “I can’t f—ing breath”. I had to come up for air quick before the second set of waves hit, and I did barely just gasped as I got hit by the white wash. That was hilarious! So much to think about you forget the most basic life needs … breathing. No way! My surfer friend taught me to reach as far forward as possible when turtling so you can pull the nose down when the wave passes, and using a hooking motion to let your legs onto the rail of board … this helps. Damn that sounds pretty easy but NOT. Takes practice but looks hella comfortable.

So for now I think I am just flipping and hanging on. I really haven’t put much thought in this yet. Lower on my list of surf technique priorities. Speaking of turtles … those big and little guys are all over the place at this surf break! Their facial expressions when taking a breath looks as if they held their breath too long and just made it up for a gasp of air (kind of like my turtle experience … well what do you know.).

Right before hitting the shore and sandy point to jump off the board, I felt like I bumped the reef … as it was low tide. But I don’t remember reef or rocks being that close to the surface in that area. So I decide to jump off the board to avoid hitting more rocks. I look back to take off my leash and low and behold a gasping turtle face pops up for air. I bumped into the turtle and they do scare me when they pop up out of the water … especially if I don’t see them first.

On that note I was told you need to look out for these guys while on a wave since hitting them could damage your board … or worse the turtles! Damn hazards to avoid … so surfing can turn into a real-life video game. Thus the necessity of knowing how to steer your board. It  all involves core strength and movement, like doing yoga on your board. Turn shoulders and shift weight and hips. This is something I am playing around with once I’m on a wave.

My positioning and location on the board determines speed while on the board, prone placement on the surfboard while paddling to drop in for a wave, different wave timing and paddling strength crucial as it determines whether you will pearl or fall out of a wave. These require a little more wave knowledge. I am not there yet but I do know when to pull out of a wave or how to avoid pearling – TIP ONE: longboard nose in the water … pull out or you will pearl!!! By the way, your surfboard pearling = board turning you into human catapult. When nose catches in water it back flips you like a pancake being flipped over… it literally launches you forward! Surreal to have this happen to you for the first time!

So much to remember! But just take mental notes, and work on each one at a time. Gung Ho!

…

Awkward.

How to rinse the surfboard, how to put it on ground,how to deal with a long surfboard on a windy day? … all new. Is it okay to put it on the ground?

Using slipper to cushion board while putting sock on the board in parking lot was a good trick to learn … so was straddling the board and pulling sock over, tip up, then stand board up to pull sock down. Oversight was that I am only 5’1” and put only 1 foot of sock on tip of board and stood it up. Yeah can’t reach sock … too high up on my 9’0” long board. A taller friend had to grab it and pull it down to my reach.

All these little things!

Even making sure to have my long hair tied back in a pony tail of some sort did not dawn on me during day one – my hair was whipping me in the face when waves hit me from behind.

If you are lucky enough to have friends go with you, that is soooo awesome. I got lucky, literally, on first day out cause I went out by myself only to find a couple of friends already out there. People I did not expect to see, or had seen in a while. Surf connected us that day,and I ended up surfing with them every time I went out.

They both are great mentors and always watch what I do and give me new pointers at appropriate times. Also could see I had lot to learn as we would paddle for same waves, and while the wave would pass me over they always seem to catch it. I could see the benefits of paddle strength and experience. I was in awe at witnessing where I was at and where I needed to be.

I actually enjoyed the moment of feeling left behind and watching people ride away on certain waves. A somber moment like being left behind as you watch someone drive off on an adventure that you want to go on as well. Pretty cool and amazing how many experiences you encounter out there.

…