For years I was in a relationship that did not compliment or push me the way that I believe I need and is meant for me. Once it ended, I began to hear what people may or may not have been saying to or about me for the years I was in the relationship. “You [...]
Life opens up opportunities to you, and you either take them or you stay afraid of taking them. – Jim Carrey
Surfing is a big part of our daily lives, and suring those times when we do get a bit far away from the things that truly matter … and surfing often calls us back … we need to pause for a bit and re-evaluate the things that really should hold our focus. In the spirit [...]
Keep walking, though there is no place to get to. Don’t try to see through the distances, that is not for human beings. Move, but not the way fear makes you move. – Rumi
After surfers overcome the hurdle of learning how to stand and ride waves, there is a period in their development which can be called the “novice” stage of development. This is where surfers are learning the foundation skills of the sport and every surfer, right from Joe Blow at your local beach to Kelly Slater, [...]
I have a very hard time making decisions. Most of the major decisions in my life, where I went to junior college, university, who I have dated, where I live, have been made at the last minute without much thought as to why, just with feeling or reaction. Whenever I get stuck inside my head, [...]
My first surf session at Puaena Point was a challenge – not able to catch waves and difficulty popping up. The waves were not powerful enough, and I didn’t have paddle strength to drop in. This particular outing, I ventured to Haleiwa’s famous Ali’i Beach and caught all the waves, because they had more power. Perhaps [...]
