I have not been surfing for over three weeks now … and oddly, I have not gotten the usual “gotta get in the water” itch that would normally accompany such a stretch of dry living. Should I be worried??? Have I lost something magical? Lost the urge or drive to surf? I had to find [...]
I love this quote, and it speaks to me at this present moment … for right now, I am being tossed around in the “sudsy” goodness of a rather large sized wave as it pummels me into the washing machione cycle of the ocean. It’s all about constantly being in the now; knowing you don’t [...]
One of the most common things you’ll hear a surfer say when asked about how much time they spend in the water is “Of course I surf every day that I can, it keeps you from going nuts.” True, There is an entirely spiritual and zen side to the sport of surfing that gives us [...]
What is it about surfers? Relaxed, easy-going, they seem to be the epitome of “chill”. Although movies have streotyped surfers as lazy and as hapless potheads, the surfers of today are all but stereotypical. Look at today’s line-up and you will see doctors, lawyers, professionals, teachers … all kinds! The thing that makes them surfers [...]
Living in Honolulu is a wonderful thing … I love this island, I love this city, I love this place. One of the things I have been in the habit of doing is “playing tourist” every now and then, so that I can re-orient myself to the truly wonderful things that this place has to [...]
I have been surfing for about 7 years now. Taught myself. It’s a very difficult sport to master and I’m not even close to where I want to be. But I work on it, constantly. I surf because it maintains my sanity. Without it, I’m left swimming in a sea of dark mental chatter that [...]
Yesterday I went surfing with some friends. We were all on mals, including Bruce, who I had only just met. Bruce surfs a lot, but this was the first time he’d ever ridden a longboard! As we dried off and changed back at our cars, I asked him if he enjoyed it? Yeah! It was [...]
Surfing legend Laird Hamilton says the ocean is one of the greatest teachers. “Simple laws and philosophies can be traced to the purity of the ocean,” says Hamilton, who created tow-in surfing, in which surfers are towed like water skiers into massive waves. This year, the 44-year-old dives into some new waters. His clothing line [...]
Inside every adult lurks a graduation speaker dying to get out, some world-weary pundit eager to pontificate on life to young people who’d rather be Rollerblading. Most of us, alas, will never be invited to sow our words of wisdom among an audience of caps and gowns, but there’s no reason we can’t entertain ourselves [...]
The Beatles’ third studio album A Hard Day’s Night is the only one to exclusively contain Lennon-McCartney compositions. Bonus: The only Beatles single to ever feature another musician on the credit is Get Back/Don’t Let Me Down (credited to The Beatles with Billy Preston).
I used to live the corporate life. Sure, there is nothing really stunning about that fact, hundreds of thousands of people live the same life on a daily basis without much incident. And although I am not the first, nor will I be the last … I have left the world of corporate living and [...]
I made a new friend from Oz recently, and I am very happy to tell everyone that her writing makes me laugh … full out, open-mouthed guffaw! It’s not often that other writers make me burst out into laughter and shake my head in open agreement, but she is one of those people. I like [...]
I know, I know … dog owners world wide are up in arms over this statement. How dare he say that? MY DOG is the BEST dog … ever. What does he know?! Starting with my deepest apologies, and with great respect to every wonderful canine out there, allow me explain my reasoning for this [...]
