Surfing has rewarded me with many incredible memories and a few really great friends. While talking with one of these friends the other day, on a small, inconsistent day I was reminded of how we met and our first conversation in the water…..
It was mid-afternoon on an overcast, winters day in Waikiki. I paddled out [...]
Somehow, when I started a snowboarding site, I knew that some day I’d be discussing surfing. Now that I’ve tried surfing, that time has finally come. I’ve heard many people claim the two are very similar while others claim they’re nothing alike. It’s true that snowboarding and surfing are two totally different experiences but there is [...]
“Don’t knock rationalization. Where would we be without it? I don’t know anyone who’d get through the day without two or three juicy rationalizations. They’re more important than sex. Have you ever gone a week without a rationalization?” – Michael, The Big Chill
Impromptu Surf Report: The surf was uniquely uninteresting today – no power, very little size, and of course as Diamond Head always will be, the winds were howling like a wolf stubbornly standing in front of a jet engine on full blast.
Although the regulars have grown accustomed to the winds and ways of Diamond [...]
Ali Hale wrote an article on her blog about creating more time in your day, and it got me to thinking about the same thing with regards to surfing. Although you cannot actually create more time – I checked and even Einstein couldn’t get his hands around that task – the management of tasks and [...]
I was making French toast this morning … yummy! The usual ingredients were present on the counter: eggs, cinnamon, milk, and of course bread. The good stuff too, not day old or cheap bread … the multi grain kind from Milton bread! Spare no expenses when it comes to making this breakfast item!
I vowed as [...]
Sometime ago, I heard the funniest thing.
There was this cute chubby Chinese boy who wasn’t exactly a Kelly Slater, but he was able to catch some and trim ok, and seem to just really enjoy himself. He would be out there almost as much as me. Anyway, he shortboards, wears a red/black rashguard, and sports [...]
I was strolling about the mall one early February day – name any one of today’s mall strips, they seem to be generically interchangeable these days – and I saw this giant poster for Valentines Day and chocolates … then a poster for Diamonds and Valentines Day … love in every form and shape; you [...]
The other day, my rotator cuff was giving me grief again so I reached into my medicine cabinet, grabbed for the bottle of Tylenol and popped a couple of caps in my mouth. A friend and I were supposed to hang out that evening, but when he made a quick ride-by to say hello that [...]
