Should I be worried??? Have I lost something magical? Lost the urge or drive to surf?

I had to find out, since this may inevitably signal a fate far worse than moving to the frozen wastelands of the NorthWest Territories. I watched surf movies, I sniffed surf wax, I listened to Jack Johnson and Donavon Frankenreiter … I even played Kelly Slater’s Surfing video game … all to no positive yield towards the surf and the ocean. Did I get sick of surfing after only 10 years of intermittent sessions?

Did I overdose on surfing after that great series of swells that hit the south shores of Oahu as of late? I don’t have an answer yet, but I was starting to get concerned … even panicky that the one thing that passionately drove me on a daily basis may be slipping away, or worse … has slipped away! There was nothing in particular holding me back from being able to surf: not a demanding job, not a nagging spouse, not the pressures of school and studies, not even a physical condition that prevents me from paddling out.

In fact, I have a truly flexible new career, a more than supportive and equally enthused-about-surfing spouse, a couple of degrees completed and stored in my back pocket, and I am in physical condition that could rival my 20 year old self from so long ago. So what is it? I realized that surfing had become a routine for me – part of the things I perform on a daily basis without much thought. And as incredibly lucky as I am for having such a great privilege allowed to me at this stage in my life, I realized that I needed to step away from surfing, at least momentarily, in order to gain the appreciation that I once held for it. I just needed a break … to recompose and re-approach surfing. Get my bearings on what surfing means to me once more.

Although I am still in the process of this discovery, I did realize one important thing about surfing and myself: I love longboards, and the style and lines associated with the classic style of longboarding. After experimenting with a variety of board styles and board sizes, I have returned to the drop-knee style of surfing … the long drawn lines … and noseriding. Don’t get me wrong, I like shortboarding for training purposes, and for larger pitchier waves … it teaches me to ride anything and everything on a constant basis. But for my money, I prefer my classic 9’2″ … arched back, and hands clasped together behind me on a long clean wave.

I also realized that I need to moderate my surfing. I need to ensure that I still appreciate the beauty and freedom of surfing by not allowing me to get too complacent with the freedoms I have to surf on any given day. As I review this aspect of my life, I have become very aware of the special things I experience on a daily basis, and have begun to hold them with a much deeper sense of appreciation.

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It is a fun sport … which accounts for all those people lugging their waxed-up sticks to the ocean on a regular basis. There is no doubt that it is fun! The booming water sport attracts hundreds upon hundreds of new people to the ocean on a daily basis, luring them with the promise of the next greatest sport to try. And people come in droves, happily donning surf gear and paddling out into the clear blue … after all, like you said, “how hard could it be?”.

This is Step 1 in Learning to Surf: thorough research! How hard surfing will be for any beginner depends on how thorough your research is about surfing, and how much research you do regarding equipment suited for you and your surf breaks. Before you even get in the water … before you even wax your first board … it is important that you understand some of the surfing basics.

Surfing basics are easier to discover for beginner surfers with the help of knowledgeable surfers, namely from a reputable surf school or a non-retail oriented surf shop. After you have exhausted resources from the internet and on-line articles about surfing, and especially after you have frustrated friends who surf with a million-and-one questions … the surf school instructor or surf shop expert is the next line of information. Their information will be especially useful since they have the inside track on local breaks and local surfers … something internet research may not provide for you!

By being open to what surf instructors and surf shop experts have to reveal to you, what type of gear you may eventually get, and the types of breaks you begin to surf may vary. In any event, being an open person and listening to the people who know the surf community will lead you to a rich research experience and get you on your way to the next step in learning to surf!

As a final word to starting your research, do not buy into surf fads and jump on the surf industry’s commercial assault of the surf community. You do not need the biggest, baddest, newest, or greatest. You just need an open mind, a caring heart, and a sense of adventure and fun!

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That’s right, only 8 out of 500 sunscreen products were deemed safe for this society of sun worshipers … while 492 sunscreen products merely provide a false sense of security of how much protection people are actually getting as they stay out in the sun a lot longer!

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) released the first-ever, in-depth analysis of the safety and effectiveness of more than 700 name-brand sunscreens. The new database (located here) lists products that offer the best combination of safety and effectiveness: they are formulated with the safest chemicals, are most effective at protecting against sunburn, and help prevent long-term damage caused by the sun’s UVA rays, which are linked to skin aging, wrinkling and, potentially, cancer. EWG’s sunscreen database is dynamic, which means that the sunscreen ranking numbers may change based on evolving science, new information on UVA, UVB radiation and sunscreen ingredients, market conditions, or other factors.

[ QUICK VIEW: The list of sunscreen by the EWG sorted by BEST OVERALL effectiveness and health score HERE. ]

The EWG analysis found that 84 percent of sunscreen products with an SPF rating of 15 or higher offered inadequate protection from the sun’s harmful rays, or contain ingredients with safety concerns. Some popular sunscreen chemicals break down when exposed to sunlight and must be formulated with stabilizing chemicals, while others penetrate the skin and present significant health concerns.

The EWG’s list of top-rated sunscreens all contain the minerals zinc or titanium. They are the right choice for people who are looking for the best UVA protection without any sunscreen chemical considered to be a potential hormone disruptor. None of the products contain oxybenzone or vitamin A and none are sprayed or powdered.

Our Surfer’s Sunscreen Tips:

• Buy a broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB rays.
• Apply sunscreen to exposed skin on a daily basis, even when it’s a cloudy day or when you plan to stay mostly indoors.
• Avoid the sun during the peak hours of 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. When outside, wear a hat, sunglasses and sun-protective clothing.
• Apply sunscreen 15 to 30 minutes before going outside, so the product can adhere and absorb into your skin. And use plenty — at least one ounce, about a shot-glass full.
• Reapply sunscreen every two hours, or after swimming, drying off or sweating a lot.

And so, after many cold mornings and conversations over dozens of cups of coffee after surfing, here are the steps to becoming a surfer as seen from people who live it on a daily basis … rain or shine!

There is no Magic Method or Secret Formula

There is no substitute for good, honest, and hard work – and being successful in surfing means you must learn to accept that there is no “magic method” that can make you the next big surf star or the king of the break! It just takes consistent practice, a healthy approach to your surf sessions, and a disciplined agenda to the areas you want to improve on. NO SHORTCUTS!

Unfortunately, some surfers have not  learned to leave that instant gratification attitude at home while they surf, and often set themselves up for disappointment as their expectations soar past what their bodies and skills can deliver. If there were a secret formula to becoming a super surfer, then the surf world would be abundantly easy and effort free!  Surfers have put a lot of effort into achieving success, and they understand that in order to achieve success in any area of life, one needs to put one foot in front of the other consistently as they move towards any given goal.

Surfing is Never ‘Finished‘ or ‘Done‘

I was chatting with a new surfer out in the water and she asked me flat out as to how long it will take to get the hang of surfing. I didn’t quite know truly how long such a complex sport would take to master, let alone just to get the hang of … so I politely told her that it may take anywhere from 2 to 5 years, on the optimistic side. Her response and following facial expression was almost of complete disbelief as she wondered if I was pulling her leg. Yep! It takes that long to get into a good groove in surfing, and even then its a constant learning curve each time you paddle out into the ocean. Surfing doesn’t ever really get resolved. It is a never ending work in progress as your move through the subtle intricacies of each wave and each break.

It Really is About the Journey

Although some may argue that the end result is being a good or great surfer, it’s the process of developing that skill set that often builds your character and provides the most learning opportunities. Look back on something significant you have achieved and examine where the most strife and lessons were gotten from …  would you really swap them so you could have fast forwarded to the result? However difficult or exhausting the process may be, understand that it will determine who you will become, and the type of character you will develop both as a person and as a surfer.

What’s the hurry about anyway?

As people and technology speed to a dizzying pace,  we all seem to get used to “quick fixes”. Somehow, a lot of people have grown accustomed to believing that if something isn’t achieved quickly, that it’s not worth achieving, or perhaps it is taking too long. Much like life, a surfer’s quest is not a race to the end. We don’t get an extra turn or a skill level for the speed at which we travel through the waves! Whenever you feel like your surfing is not as progressive as it should be, or if you think you should be a much better surfer than you currently are, try and take a step back and remind myself about what it is you actually enjoy about surfing and being out in the ocean … about what you are doing in the present, and that building anything truly worthwhile and exceptional takes time!

Nothing replaces hard work

Yes, see the point above. Anything worthwhile does take time. We all need to learn to develop the skills of being persistent, and keeping the bigger picture in mind. I think this is why people sometimes quit surfing or get frustrated during the learning process. What they are forgetting is that the hard work, over time, translates into solid skills and patterns. All the paddling and the falling off the board will blossom into a wicked-bad bottom turn or drop knee turn one of these days …

You can’t be taught PASSION

This point is a given: it is for you, and you alone, to find your passion. No one can teach anyone how to find or have passion. Others may be able to help us find our passion, and some may also be able to share their experiences in a way that can help us find our own passion … but passion is fundamentally different for each and every individual. True, someone can introduce yo to surfing. Yes, someone can call you every waking morning and invite you to surf, BUT the passion to pursue surfing … to chase it down like a marble rolling down a hill is something that only you can awaken within yourself! Surfing passion is a very unique concoction of your very own inner voices, secret desires, life experiences, and individual skills and talents. If surfing is your passion, then the early morning calls will be coming from you.

Trust yourself

There are a lot of good surfers and coaches already at your disposal, in the form of friends and mentors. So by all means, enlist the help of good mentors and learn from others who are further along the surfer’s path. As you learn and progress from many advice and tips … and there will be plenty … remember that we as surfers all have a unique path and preference, as well as comfort levels. It is your job, and once again your job alone, to work out how to bring your skills and your path to the foreground of your surfing. Sometimes the reason we look to others for the answer to ‘success’ is because we don’t trust ourselves. We don’t trust ourselves to do our own thing, to take a risk and to shine. We need to learn to trust ourselves. Start today, as the ocean welcomes you into her arms and you paddle into the line up, listen to what your intuition is saying and start doing what feels right for you … and only you.

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And as I sit in front of these green plastic soldiers once again, this time with a battle obsessed three year old engaged in his version of Pearl Harbor involving toy soldiers and plastic ninjas and samurai,  I grin with a knowing green that only an old man can have. Boys and their toys.

Yes, critics have accused army men of advocating gun violence and militarism. And yes they have been banned from schools and daycare programs with zero tolerance weapon policies. And I do know of an overly enthusiastic parent who on one occasion, asked her children to clip the weapons off of plastic army men. And yet …

What do you have there? I ask the boy, looking to engage him into conversation.

Soldiers on surfboards … he says rather matter-of-factly, continuing his assault on the soldiers with ninjas hiding inside a small box.

I’m sorry, what did you say?

Soldiers on surfboards! says the boy again.

And I stared at the little green soldiers in their stoic poses, forever grounder to their green platform bases designed to make them steady yet immobile. Yes, they were indeed shaped like surfboards. And although perhaps only a child growing up in Hawaii’s surf culture – exposed to parents and friends who surf on a daily basis – can make the connection between toys soldiers standing on surfboards, the little voice rang true. Soldiers … little green army men … on surfboards.

Perhaps we do see what we want to see in all that is around, and perhaps we interpret things that we see based solely on the limited experience we have had … but soldiers on surfboards seems like a good thing to me.

And so together – this wise-beyond-his-years boy and I – stopped the epic battle between ninjas, samurai, and soldiers and proceeded to make them surf happily together.

Matt Mattoon of Matunas Co. Inc. is looking to place surf wax in the forefront of everyone’s minds with ecologically friendly watersports/surf wax. It is a product line aimed not at surfers alone, but everyone who realizes that the oceans are in dire need of help from the very people who play within its waters. With millions of people entering the oceans on a daily basis, it is quite easy to understand the tipping point at hand. The oceans are quickly being polluted by non-biodegradable wax as it rubs off typical watermen sports and activities such as surfing and body boarding.

The Product: Matunas wax is the only non-toxic, biodegradable, petroleum-free, eco-friendly surf wax. Made from local California-based ingredients without any synthetic chemicals, this increasingly popular surf wax boasts itself as farm-produced - a majority of Matunas products come from their California farm, in Santa Cruz. Believe it or not, beeswax, jasmine, clay, and tree sap are the main ingredients used in the surf wax that is derived from their farm. In addition, organic produce not used for consumption through local markets, like raspberries and strawberries, are used for the scents of the surf wax.

To top off the eco-friendly twist, Matunas does not use chemicals or additives in their wax. As it rubs off your surfboard, it returns to its natural state without harming the oceans and the creatures who call it home! Additionally, their surf wax labels are printed from 100% recycled paper, using soy ink for colors and print.

The Test: We at iJs have a long history with Matunas surf wax, since it was one of our first forays into reviewing a surf product. Matt Mattoon, founder and environmental chemist was very helpful in helping us understand some of the internet hoopla about his surf wax. He was quite informative at dispelling myths and rumors about Matunas surf wax, and even provided us with some serious phone time to interview him.

However, as nice as Matt was, we still  placed some serious research on this product – how could we resist the challenge? We even went as far as allowing the staffers to run the gamut of tests from longboard and shortboard use, warm water and cold water use, straight applications to base coat+top coat application … even newbie surfers and pro surfers got into the mix.

We tested Matunas wax in three places: (1) Bondi and Bronte Beaches, in Australia, (2) Honolulu Beaches in Hawaii, and just recently (3) San Juan del Sur beaches, in Nicaragua. We had some staffers doing surf travel, and we couldn’t resist! Armed with regular wax and Matunas eco wax, our staffers waxed one side of their boards with each product (regular on one side, and Matunas eco wax on the other) and went surfing in their respective areas.

Although we tested smell (the wahines love the fruity smell, not so much the guys!), the ease of application (just like any other way in consistency), and the cost (a few cents more than regular surf wax) … the main issue we wanted to test was the durability of the wax in actual surf use … primarily because much of the internet myth was that this wax rubs off easily during actual water use.

From our temperature durability tests, we found very quickly that using Matunas basecoat severely prolongs the life of each wax application! While cold water wax stayed on the board much like regular wax, we found that warm water wax benefited greatly from the use of basecoat.

As a secondary test at Lighthouse break, at the base of Diamond Head Honolulu, we waxed one side of a 6’6″ twin fin with Matunas basecoat+Matunas Tropical and the other side with straight Tropical application. Although the wax held up fairly well through the 2 hour surf session, the side without the basecoat seemed all but gone by the end. The “basecoat plus tropical” side stayed true to the standards we were familiar with surf wax.

To place this issue to further tests, we took Matunas tropical+basecoat to Colorados and Panga Drops, popular surf breaks near San Juan del Sur in Nicaragua, where water temperatures average at 86 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius). Sorry to say, but even with the basecoat and tropical wax application, we found ourselves having to re-wax almost after every session … at times durinf mid-session on warmer days!

The Verdict: The bottom line is this product is out to ease the strain on mother nature and our oceans … so even in the painfully warm waters of Nicaragua, we didn’t mind reapplying another coat of wax. How could we even allow ourselves to use any other wax product that is NOT biodegradable at this point??? As environmentally concerned surfers, the slight inconvenience of having to wax a bit more often definitely outweighed the environmental impact of using any other surf wax that serves to pollute our waters! Surf on brothers and sisters!

A big Mahalo to Matt Mattoon at Matunas Co Inc. , and huge props for helping us surf smarter!

[article previously posted as "‘12 Days of Xmas’ #8: Matunas Eco Surf Wax"]