I have not been surfing for over three weeks now … and oddly, I have not gotten the usual “gotta get in the water” itch that would normally accompany such a stretch of dry living. Should I be worried??? Have I lost something magical? Lost the urge or drive to surf? I had to find [...]
The rules of surfing are eternally unwritten. They undulate from break to break like the surface of the water, but like the water, they adhere to the laws of nature – the delicate balance between gravity and surface tension. There are no referees in the water. There are no cops, supervisors, principals or mommies to [...]
A few days ago I was waiting at the water’s edge for a break in the swell, trying to organise my timing so I could get out past the massive wash that was about to hinder me as I paddled out. The swell was solid and the sweep was still really strong and there were [...]
Surfing is about good times, good friends, and good waves. Unless of course it means that more people will show up at your ‘secret’ surf spot, right? We took an informal poll amongst serious and week-end warrior surfers and the verdict is in … surfers love surfing and laughing merrily with their friends in the [...]
In surfing, you’re either a right foot or a left foot – meaning the foot you lead with and the one you attach the leash to. The rear foot you use for balance. If you lead with your right foot, you’re a goofy foot. I used to be a left foot (regular stance), but then [...]
Did someone teach you how to surf? If you are like me, my friends, and most surfers, then no one taught you how to surf. You may have paddled out with someone who knew how to surf, and they gave you a few pointers, but for the most part you figured it out on your own. [...]
Pearling is when you paddle for a wave and the nose of your board goes under water, followed by you and all you see is the tail of the board shot straight up in the air.
My first surf session at Puaena Point was a challenge – not able to catch waves and difficulty popping up. The waves were not powerful enough, and I didn’t have paddle strength to drop in. This particular outing, I ventured to Haleiwa’s famous Ali’i Beach and caught all the waves, because they had more power. Perhaps [...]
The past several years, I have kept a small plastic bin in the trunk of my car that has housed surf-related items. Apparently, over the course of many surf sessions I have amassed what has become my very own personalized surfer’s survival kit … a tried and true list of items that continues to ensure [...]
And so I went surfing at a new surf break recently … new break and new people. Now, I’m already WAY comfortable at my home break, and the people there – so I find myself in a very unfamiliar scene. The break is faster to me, and the surroundings unknown. I am not yet familiar [...]
