I’ve always wondered how you quit surfing. I know it’s possible; I just don’t think I could do it. I’ve seen others drop the sport without much struggle, yet I’m not sure I quite understand the circumstances or physiology required to walk away from the ocean. In Steven Kotler’s West Of Jesus: Surfing, Science and [...]
If you pay attention to the surfers at the beach preparing to paddle out into the line up, you may notice most devotees to the sport are partial to stretching. As you watch them contorting into poses that gear them up for hours of surfing fun, some familiar poses may begin to appear – downward-facing [...]
I am sitting in my office staring at my monitor. In front of me is a blank white page of a Word document that will end up being more than 50 pages. The document is slated to be a comprehensive organization wide plan and procedure due in exactly 35 hours. I sit back in my [...]
Much like most modern-day people, there are rarely quiet moments in my day. However, I don’t mean quiet as in noiseless or without the constant chatter of computers, cell phones, iPods, or the droning toll of endless meetings. No, that is something I have come to enjoy and rally around … it’s inside my own [...]
I recently wrote about my growing concern about the lack of “need” to surf during the last few months, and it is about time that I revisited that notion. It has indeed been over two months since I have paddled out into the great blue yonder on my trusted surfboard, and the oddly persistent itch [...]
