It may seem like an unimaginable ‘hop’ from the shores of the Hawaiian islands to the Pacific Ocean coast of Nicaragua, but expat and local Hawaii chef Kenny Nakai connected Hawaii’s taste and flavors to the Nicaraguan culture in San Juan del Sur. Known as “the place where Nicaraguans go for holidays”, this small Nicaraguan town – mere minutes from the Costa Rican border – echoes the serene pace of what was an old fishing town reforming itself into a burgeoning paradise for visitors from all over the world.

It is a wonder that one could find tastes of Hawaii in a small Nicaraguan fishing town … but as one of the inseparable parts of the soul and spirit of surfing,  Hawaii comes to where ever there are waves and surfers to be found. Kenny Nakai’s Pau Hana is a mix of local Nica flavor and Hawaiian flare, recreating such local Hawaiian favorites as ‘Loco-Moco’ and Chicken Stri-Fry, as well as fusion dishes like “Ono” Revuelto (Spanish for ’scrambled) and Hawaiian Chicken Sandwich.

Located on the beach front row of bars, restaurants, and eateries in what can be called San Juan del Sur’s (SJDS) main strip, Kenny Nakai’s “Pau Hana” calls on the long tradition of ‘finished with work’ and ‘let’s get together with friends’ and mixes it with what is already a definitely laid back Nica scene. The restaurant is decorated with blazingly vibrant colors and a tropical island touch recalling visions of Waikiki and the Big Island.

The menu (only several days old since the restaurant opened)  follows Nicaraguan standards for the most parts, but succeeds in injecting familiar Hawaiian flavors, such as the flavorful Ono Revuelto … a local favorite of scrambled eggs mixed with your standard Hawaiian goodness for breakfast. Think scrambled egg omelet with veggies and a Nica flare!

BUT, let’s talk about the mother-of-all Hawaiian local favorites, the loco moco. Consisting of a bowl (or plate) of rice topped with a hamburger patty, a fried egg, and doused with brown gravy for good measure, this Hawaii favorite becomes the barometer of how local Hawaiian a restaurant can get. After months of being away from Hawaii, this was a definite treat!

Personally accustomed to fabulous loco moco plates from Honolulu favorites such as Asahi Grill and Diamond Head Market & Grill, Kenny’s loco moco was up for some serious scrutiny … and unfortunately it pales in comparison, although not in spirit! The flavors are colorful, with touches of sautéed onions to boot, but the two main components of the dish ( the gravy and the flavored beef patty) were unseasoned and at times bland.To his credit, Kenny does offer other flavors of Hawaii that makes it easy to bypass the loco moco!

[photo collage assembled courtesy 0f DanCesar.com photos]