A surfer’s wish this holiday season eh? ‘That’s easy’ you say with a Grinch-like grin! No, dear friends, it is not for a bigger quiver of surfboards or a surf break alone to myself every dawn session (although those things are quite desirable too!). It has been many years since I have indulged in that [...]
“For me, why you surf is more important than how you surf” – Nathan Oldfield, Seaworthy. I think about the reef and how the wave forms a bowl over and around it. I know where to sit on my board and wait, taking my bearing from the sucky rock. Sections close fast going right at [...]
They may be trapped in Gaza, but riding the waves seems like the great escape.
I have not been surfing for over three weeks now … and oddly, I have not gotten the usual “gotta get in the water” itch that would normally accompany such a stretch of dry living. Should I be worried??? Have I lost something magical? Lost the urge or drive to surf? I had to find [...]
Three-time surfing world champion Andy Irons has died from an illness on his way home to Hawaii from a surfing event. The 32-year-old was forced to withdraw from the current men’s tour event in Puerto Rico. His family has confirmed he was found dead in Dallas, Texas on Tuesday after being too ill to board a [...]
I’ve always wondered how you quit surfing. I know it’s possible; I just don’t think I could do it. I’ve seen others drop the sport without much struggle, yet I’m not sure I quite understand the circumstances or physiology required to walk away from the ocean. In Steven Kotler’s West Of Jesus: Surfing, Science and [...]
Aikido, as Pat Cockett, a waterman from Kauai, writes, “is the art of directed motion within a stream of energy.” If one were to substitute as a training partner, instead of a 200 pound man, 10,000 tons of moving water, then the strategy of blending with and using the energy at hand makes a great [...]
As I thought about it more, I noticed there were correlations between surfing and blogging that I wanted to point out and hopefully allow up and coming bloggers to benefit from the power of catching their first “wave”. So without further ado, here is my 6 step guide for getting up on your board. Enjoy! [...]
When the wind dies down, the crowds disappear and you have this aquatic playground all to yourself, you know it’s going to be a good day. Every single wave is yours for the taking. The waves aren’t perfect, but if they were there’s no way you’d be the only one out there. The mention of [...]
Nine-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater won the Hurley Pro Saturday at Lower Trestles, the same San Clemente, Calif. venue where he won his maiden victory as a pro nearly 20 years ago to the day. Of course, if and when any mention of his win makes the mainstream sporting press in the U.S. it’s [...]
Like most things we do, I find surfing to be a terrific mirror for how one leads their life. You can either ride on the shoulder of the wave, cruising along at a safe distance, at an easy pace, always staying ahead of the danger. You could ride behind the peak, in the wash, always [...]
The top 5 surf songs by surfers
When it comes to surfing, you either do or you don’t. There is no in between. But what is it about surfing that causes such reckless devotion to the sport? I think there are a number of reasons, and I’ll try to explain it as I see it. 1) Conditioning: Surfers know the term “surf [...]
The Importance of Surfing in Hawaii
I have spent a lot of time at airports lately and have become quite adept at sleeping sitting up, as well as digesting food that slightly resembles the taste of cardboard. On a recent stop at Detroit Metro Airport (DTW) headed for the warm surf of Nicaragua, I stood in line with this unfortunate surfer [...]
