I surf longboards. I have a few boards, but two of them are 9′2″ and wide and thick and have heavy glass. I often find that my arm gets tired if I have to carry one of them too far, but when that happens, I just put it on my head and let it rest [...]
In the living room of my house my surfboards and couch are on opposites walls facing each other. As I sat on the couch with a friend we started talking about surfing.
“So you hang out on the nose when you surf?”
No, not really hang out, I replied.
“You surf North Shore when it’s got size?”
No, I [...]
Frank Frazetta inked this anti-smoking campaign with a surfer twist that used to run in the back of the Warren magazines in 1974. Known for his campy and sexy comic book illustrations, Frank managed to get a curvy comic book siren in this ad to illustrate the point of smoking versus surfing … plus a [...]
RYOBI, the power tool company, has partnered with an Australian ad agency BMF Sydney, and came up with this clever set of advertisements geared for surfers and their specific line of power tools.
No disrespect to kayakers, body boarders, and stand up paddle boarders … but as surfers, we like that someone over at Ryobi surfs and [...]
Somehow, when I started a snowboarding site, I knew that some day I’d be discussing surfing. Now that I’ve tried surfing, that time has finally come. I’ve heard many people claim the two are very similar while others claim they’re nothing alike. It’s true that snowboarding and surfing are two totally different experiences but there is [...]
There’s a blue-and-white sticker on the door of Room 513 in the dormitory at Union Theological Seminary, an imposing institution of Gothic design. “Life Is Better When You Surf,” it says.
Mary Setterholm moved from Hermosa Beach to New York six weeks ago to begin a new life in her mid 50s, but there are things about [...]
I have spent a lot of time at airports lately and have become quite adept at sleeping sitting up, as well as digesting food that slightly resembles the taste of cardboard. On a recent stop at Detroit Metro Airport (DTW) headed for the warm surf of Nicaragua, I stood in line with this unfortunate surfer [...]
This is probably nothing new for you. I am sure you have a good idea of how you fit into your local break. People know your name and you know people’s names. Along with their basic CV of familial relations and work status, you have probably tried to put them in some category of surfer. [...]
I’ve always wondered how you quit surfing.
I know it’s possible; I just don’t think I could do it. I’ve seen others drop the sport without much struggle, yet I’m not sure I quite understand the circumstances or physiology required to walk away from the ocean.
In Steven Kotler’s West Of Jesus: Surfing, Science and the Origins [...]
It’s a wonder that this sport we all love so much is called surfing at all, since we are actually paddling about 90 percent of the time when we are out in the water! Although the glory is in ripping wicked-bad bottom turns and busting out massive air, much of the work in getting into [...]
We know that there are things such as a “Surfer’s Wish” for Christmas time, and also a coveted gift list behind every eager surfer, but at this time of year we know that there will be an entire line-up of surfers that will design their ideal “moment of clarity” choices in the form of new year’s [...]
Beginning surfers often quietly share with me that they feel like giving up on the sport altogether, often due to the perception that they “just can’t seem to get it right“. Although I know plenty of surfers that would revel in the reduction of numbers in the lineup as a result of “learning-fallout”, it needs [...]
Surfing legend Laird Hamilton says the ocean is one of the greatest teachers. “Simple laws and philosophies can be traced to the purity of the ocean,” says Hamilton, who created tow-in surfing, in which surfers are towed like water skiers into massive waves.
This year, the 44-year-old dives into some new waters. His clothing line — [...]
A surfer’s wish this holiday season eh? ‘That’s easy’ you say with a Grinch-like grin! No, dear friends, it is not for a bigger quiver of surfboards or a surf break alone to myself every dawn session (although those things are quite desirable too!). It has been many years since I have indulged in that [...]
Jason gave up surfing when he met a girl, and they got married. It seems that they needed more time together, and since she didn’t surf, that particular activity was first on the chopping block. Slowly, one day at a time, Jason disappeared from the line up. It didn’t happen all at once – the [...]
