When the wind dies down, the crowds disappear and you have this aquatic playground all to yourself, you know it’s going to be a good day. Every single wave is yours for the taking. The waves aren’t perfect, but if they were there’s no way you’d be the only one out there. The mention of [...]
Nine-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater won the Hurley Pro Saturday at Lower Trestles, the same San Clemente, Calif. venue where he won his maiden victory as a pro nearly 20 years ago to the day. Of course, if and when any mention of his win makes the mainstream sporting press in the U.S. it’s [...]
Like most things we do, I find surfing to be a terrific mirror for how one leads their life. You can either ride on the shoulder of the wave, cruising along at a safe distance, at an easy pace, always staying ahead of the danger. You could ride behind the peak, in the wash, always [...]
Moving north from Byron Bay to live and work and study in Brisbane for the past few years has meant a big shift in my access to surfing. In the past I would surf at least once every day and had an ongoing and real relationship to conditions, banks and spots that were working. I [...]
You never know what Mother Nature can and will do. After these many years of surfing, I have never experienced two surf days (or sessions) that were alike! I love picking up my board, I love packing my wax, towel, and wetsuit, I love the smell of the ocean, I love feeling the wet sand between my toes, [...]
The top 5 surf songs by surfers
When it comes to surfing, you either do or you don’t. There is no in between. But what is it about surfing that causes such reckless devotion to the sport? I think there are a number of reasons, and I’ll try to explain it as I see it. 1) Conditioning: Surfers know the term “surf [...]
The Importance of Surfing in Hawaii
I have spent a lot of time at airports lately and have become quite adept at sleeping sitting up, as well as digesting food that slightly resembles the taste of cardboard. On a recent stop at Detroit Metro Airport (DTW) headed for the warm surf of Nicaragua, I stood in line with this unfortunate surfer [...]
Ever since Bruce Brown let loose upon the surf world his “travel documentary” Endless Summer, the idea of travelling around the globe in pursuit of waves has been a much sought-after dream for surfers of all ages. From tiny groms to seasoned old fogeys, the romanticized dream of hopping on an airplane with nothing more than [...]
We finally found out why almost all zippers on everything we own have the letters “YKK” molded on them! The YKK stands for Yoshida Kogyo Kabushikikaisha (say that five times fast). In 1934 Tadao Yoshida founded Yoshida Kogyo Kabushikikaisha (translated Yoshida Industries Limited). This company is now the worlds foremost zipper manufacturer … making about [...]
Ali Hale wrote an article on her blog about creating more time in your day, and it got me to thinking about the same thing with regards to surfing. Although you cannot actually create more time – I checked and even Einstein couldn’t get his hands around that task – the management of tasks and [...]
The rain started early this morning. A slow, soft drizzle, but with evident undertones that it intended to get harder. Almost warning us to take cover. We sat next to her bed. Counting the seconds between her breathes, 5 seconds, she lay asleep; 7 seconds; no movement but her chest rising and falling; 12 seconds, [...]
FOR 25 years, Dr. Warren M. Patch has kept regular office hours. Mornings, the 55-year-old chiropractor sees patients from 9 to noon; afternoons, from 3 to 6. And noon to 3? “Doc Patch is gone surfing,” said Scott Harrison, 52, a computer network engineer and surfer himself, who comes to Doc for the chronic upper back [...]
I suppose they are really not secrets, but surviving the locals and big surf that the Hawaiian Islands has to offer can be quite a chore. First off I would say always use common sense when you are thinking about surfing a new surf break. If you are a beginning surfer, and you think you [...]
