If you fall, it’s just water. If you aren’t falling, you aren’t learning. These simple rules dance in my head as a code for life. They remind me to be light-hearted during every surf session- on the beach before paddling out, as I’m gliding carelessly down the wave, and when I ride the last one [...]
Surfers are a fun-loving group of people, often times hooting and laughing as the waves roll into their specific break. But don’t let this outer layer fool you … it is not secret that surfers are territorial. Let’s face the fact that as a rule, the goal is to protect the beaches, the breaks, and [...]
One of the questions we receive most frequently from beginning surfers is this one: “Do I paddle with my back arched“? In the end my dear surfer friends, although there are various answers and discussions about paddling methods and techniques, it is all about the physics of paddling. Arching your back will make sure that your [...]
I haven’t been surfing regularly, more like sporadically, but I remember a few things to share – a surf-condensed version of the past month or so … People don’t like to surf when it is choppy because it is tiring as hell. It’s just not the same … having to paddle more to stay in [...]
It’s been a while since I’ve posted any beginner tips and I thought I’d throw one out there based on my experiences over the past 2 or 3 years. So here goes: After a certain amount of time, you’re going to find yourself comfortably being able to stand up on your board with a measurable [...]
Did someone teach you how to surf? If you are like me, my friends, and most surfers, then no one taught you how to surf. You may have paddled out with someone who knew how to surf, and they gave you a few pointers, but for the most part you figured it out on your own. [...]
After a long dry spell, I am finally back in the water! I managed to get myself out to Alii Beach (see my experiences at this break here and here) for a session with a lineup of virtual strangers, but we made conversation while out on the water. The waves were pretty small, which made [...]
If you pearl while getting to your feet you either waited too long to catch the wave (you’re late) or your feet are positioned too far forward on your board.
This is the first time someone asked me that question directly: Are you a surfer? I hesitated for a second to think about that deep question … and decided I was indeed a surfer, so I answered yes. But I still had to qualify my answer by saying it has only been a month of [...]
During my last surf session, in my quest to improve as a surfer, I came across a pleasant issue. As I am beginning to ride longer waves, as well as playing around with turning and moving up and down on the long board … I have noticed the rail (the side of the surfboard) dips [...]
My recent surf session was a great success! I paddled out not so enthusiastically about going, but I am after all still on my voyage to attaining surf passion … I paddled out and caught the very first wave that came across my path, surprisingly even before I could even sit up to wait around [...]
Beyond the breaking waves, I sit balanced atop a surfboard as my feet slowly churn the warm Pacific waters. Ocean swells rise, then gently lift my body as they roll toward shore. It’s early, not long after sunrise, and I am lured to this perch thanks to Jessica, my surf coach and yoga teacher for [...]
I paddled out at Ali’i Beach in Haleiwa today, and found myself feeling fearful. It had been a while since I last went out, but I couldn’t understand why I was fearful. I was inside … looking out at the waves on the outer break that I had paddled out to before. The waves looked bigger and [...]
After surfers overcome the hurdle of learning how to stand and ride waves, there is a period in their development which can be called the “novice” stage of development. This is where surfers are learning the foundation skills of the sport and every surfer, right from Joe Blow at your local beach to Kelly Slater, [...]
Yesterday was a short but sweet session. I managed to Squeeze in ’bout 20 minutes. I didn’t know why da heck I was going out for such a short time … but well worth it. I had more success during yesterday’s session than the longer one the day before. In case I haven’t mentioned this [...]
