People don’t like to surf when it is choppy because it is tiring as hell. It’s just not the same … having to paddle more to stay in one place, and the bobbing around kind of tires you. There are waves but the choppiness discourages … and that is why you don’t see surfers out on choppy days even with waves. Then there’s the dizzy factor to turtling. When the sets come in and you’re paddling out, after about three turtles in a row you start to get dizzy. Maybe it is better to just stay upside down and wait for the waves. Saves your energy and avoids temporary vertigo.

Also pay attention to how far out you are when you catch a wave. I was playing around in the inner breaks and caught a wave. Was enjoying the ride and not looking where I was going. I am paying attention to the board and trying to practice turning and stuff. I looked up to see that I was fast approaching the shore and jumped off into shallow waters, landed in calf high water so I (luckily) hit sand. My momentum made me tumble onto the shore, the board flipped over and bonked me on the head. Whalah, crash landed for a perfect 10 in on-shore crashes.

I did have an epiphany at my last session after many tries and failures of trying to catch the breaking 4 foot waves: Different waves require different techniques. The easy waves you learn on break into a rolling white wash so you can catch it and go straight forward and wait to pop up. You can pop up sooner and later or just lay down and ride it like a boogie boarder.But the mentality is wait to feel yourself gliding forward and then pop up.

This does not apply to the bigger breaking waves. If you go straight, no matter how far back on the board you go, you will pearl or nose dive. I watched someone catch a wave after I came up from pearling and all the sets were coming in. I was too tired to paddle out through all the sets and watched as they came in and others catch them with ease. I watched with a technical eye and noticed that this surfer popped up on top of the wave as soon as he caught it and turned away from the break to ride the side of the wave.

“Ah-ha” moment.

Just to be sure when I paddled out I asked a local surfer chick and she told me the same thing. The thing is I really don’t know if I can turn that quickly. I know I can pop up but the turning is sketchy. So I tried it but popped up too early and fell back behind the wave. Was not able to continue to try again, too tired. But it was a successful day despite no actual waves caught where I stood up and rode them. Just rolled around in the white wash a bunch of times.

In talking with my friend Ron he pointed out that when I turn my rail will go into the wave and I will speed up. Another epiphany. Whenever I tried turning on those smaller waves and my rail would dip in I would always eat it. He told me that is not the case when I am on a bigger wave. My board will stick to the wave and pick up speed.

Whoa … I hope I can handle that speed. Something to look forward to next session.

The waves were pretty small, which made for a great day to practice. SMALL waves, and I waited most of the time … watched as a guy on his long board fish with rod and reel and caught a nice size papio. The humpback whales were breaching and fin slapping just beyond the buoy. That gives you the picture of the kind of day it was.

But sets came in that were impressive to some of the beginners. Waves were steeper, but not powerful. So you can feel the force of the wave right when it breaks, pop up and find that you are hardly moving. I wondered what had happened to my surfing … maybe I need to step up towards the nose for more speed … but nope, just no gusto on these waves today after they break.

But yet others out with more experience find a wave that takes them all the way in.  I need to figure out how they do that and catch those waves that don’t even break as they ride it with no white wash? Hmm. I was perplexed, but this guy just made it look so easy and fun.

One day…that will be me.

I caught a few more waves, but found that it was difficult to get a long ride even though it seemed possible at those wave size. Either I pearled or I narrowly avoided a pearl by throwing board off to the side. I did that once by sheer instinct, and thought it funny at what I just did to avoid pearling. I ended up body surfing the wave for a bit floating up in the white wash. Small kine reward!

I did get great practice turtling. Still trying to find best way to be under board; straight, hug with feet or this new one I did pull board down with arms as you put your feet on the board in opposing forces (kind of like an upside down squat). I kind of like that upside down squat but not sure how that would work in shallow waters. Maybe not a good idea for risk of hitting back on rocks. Sometimes I turtled too early so I had to wait with my head above water until right before the wave gets to me.

Timing is everything.

Upon observation, the steeper waves require an angled take off rather than straight forward like when catching those little waves with no wall for a break that just turns into white wash versus breaking with crest coming down. Step up so adjustments to be made.

But I still had to qualify my answer by saying it has only been a month of surfing for me. But no one ever seems to care about that.

It seems that more questions follow the “are you a surfer” question, like “where do you surf?” and “what do you surf on?”. It’s still funny because until recently I was not sure if I am a surfer or not. Up until now, I always separated the act of surfing from the person … my thinking was that the learning part does not necessarily mean you are a surfer.

It’s almost like needing to go through college courses to be qualified or considered a doctor. Surfing is subjective in the labeling of the person or the act. Pretty cool. Doesn’t take much!

I asked a surfer friend about this issue, and I was told that gaining speed and planing on a surfboard involves this process. It was explained to me that this is how to gain momentum on a wave: going up and down the wave. But these are 1 to 2 foot Hawaiian. Not much wave surface for going up and down.

Wave sizes: apparently Hawaiian waves are measured from the back and not the front. Wave height from the back is shorter than from the front. So I was told in general 1 to 2 foot Hawaiian is like 2 to 4 regular or something to that effect.

So learning more about surfing in the water and outside the water … and about the water.

I paddled out and caught the very first wave that came across my path, surprisingly even before I could even sit up to wait around for one. I was up on my board and on a long ride … the longest ever. That ride determined and defined my surf session.

Next, I went head on with a breaking wave and busted through to the other side like a football linebacker. What a thrill to apply my “Jackass” crazy mentality to challenge a wave. Mind you, these are smaller waves than usual, but I did it and felt good.

Some regular surfing friends were out at the line up and saw me fully diggin’ the waves. I am so lucky to have those guys out there – always giving me something new to work on once I have gotten the hang of something. The next thing to work on is shortening my stance to make it easier to turn on my board.

Then there is the surf jargon. There was talk about surfboards, and the mention of quivers. Knowing it was surf jargon, I joked that quiver is something you do or the state you’re in when a wave is about to break on you … because you’re in the wrong spot. Or is it the bag that holds all your arrows?

Well apparently for surfers a quiver is a collection of surfboards that one develops when you become a surfer.

I was at Alii Beach today to surf with another friend, one who is also a beginner surfer like myself. Our plan was to surf the inner break where most of the beginners hang around to surf. Whalah! Perhaps that was the fear factor I was feeling. I was being overly ambitious than what I had intended.

I was desiring being out in the bigger surf, but not quite ready for that. Wow! So glad I figured out the source of that fear.

So off I went into the inner break with the newbie folks. Happy as can be where I was. The itty bittys were coming out in groves to surf in that area. I watched these kids in awe, as I noticed the facial expressions of these little girls around 7 years old.

I took a step back to notice the desire, determination, and fearlessness they had on their faces. Admirable and amazing!

I recognized that at that age, I was in a different place than I am at today. I would not have taken up surfing as a child that age … raised by fear. Fear is something I have worked on very hard to change … thus taking up surfing! But also, I wanted to acquire that feeling that my friends express when they speak of surfing.

[original artwork by Justin Floyd]

In case I haven’t mentioned this yet, I have a hand-me-down performance longboard, and have been told that it may not be the best to learn on – apparently, the shape and rocker on it requires more experience. But hell when you get it for free from your older bro, you work with what you got! And I knew I could do it.

My experienced big wave surfer friend saw it and said “Girl you scored! I can rip on this!” That says a lot don’t it?

My very first day out on this board I immediately noticed what balance it required .. as just laying on it to paddle caused me  to wobble back and forth. Just sitting up on it waiting for waves was also wobbly, and a few times I got so off balanced that I flipped off the surfboard and into the ocean. Yeah wiping out when no waves around, gotta luv it.

The best was feeling like I was  bull riding as I floated over the waves. Yee haw, ride em cowgirl! (Ever heard that saying “Cowgirl up!”? That’s me on a surf board toughing it out on my bull riding board.) Imagine the sight of that one out there.

So yesterday, while paddling out I noticed how stable I was. When I got out to my point of sitting up…stable. Well what do you know…no more bull riding. Maybe I’ll take that up after mastering this surfing thing.

And that last issue of how to deal with oncoming waves as I paddle out? I kind of decided to take the “Jackass” approach to it. You know those crazy guys that do those unthinkable stunts on that cable show. I saw a few episodes and some were great laughs, while others were just head shakers of disbelief. Anyway, I actually decided to channel that energy, just a little, in dealing with those waves. I got some power from it as I had a wave break right in front of me, I powered through it with my “Jackass” mentality and dipped the nose of the board and just braced for it like a football lineman and bam! … came out the back unscathed.

Now mind you these are just itty bitty waves in comparison to the “real” waves. BUT I harnessed a productive fearlessness from the “Jackass” dudes with more prudence of course.  I also did a proper pop up on the board on my first wave. So in terms of this short session .. a lot gained and no dismissing short sessions for lack of time. Squeeze it in, it will be worth it!

My turns are getting better. I used to boogie board and it was easy to whip that board around on your belly but those skegs make it more difficult.  I had to inquire on how to do this, and found out that I need to be sitting towards the rear of the surfboard, and then dip the back of the board down into the water – literally lifting most of the surfboard out of the water,  and then use your legs to make egg beater kicks to turn around. Eventually, you can pick up the board, swing it around and go without the kicks! A surfer friend pointed out additional tricks like grabbing the rail of the surfboard with one hand and pulling the board in the direction of that hand, egg beater feet and use other free hand to paddle in the direction you are turning. Little details helped.

Oh, regarding the issue of whether you can duck dive a longboard … apparently a common question, as a newer surfers than myself have asked this same question of me. Not really a good option or possibility with longboards.  You need to dip the nose of the surfboard into the water, straighten your arms up like  in yoga when doing up dog, THEN let the wave pass between your surfboardboard and body, and then do a move that seems like a little hop with the legs, only to to end in a position which I can only describe as a breakdance move called the worm. I guess the hop is an option as it takes a bit of your energy out of you, but fun nonetheless to do.

Turtling – a move to break through waves with a longboard –  was funny; sounds easier than it is. For the bigger white wash that you go over, you flip your surfboard over and let wave pass over you. Little details in that also! During my first flip, I was underwater and hit my head on the board trying to pull the board down. But instead, I pulled myself up to the board and hit my head.  ’Kay that didn’t feel right.

Or the other time I forgot to take a breath before going under. As soon as I got under I realized “I can’t f—ing breath”. I had to come up for air quick before the second set of waves hit, and I did barely just gasped as I got hit by the white wash. That was hilarious! So much to think about you forget the most basic life needs … breathing. No way! My surfer friend taught me to reach as far forward as possible when turtling so you can pull the nose down when the wave passes, and using a hooking motion to let your legs onto the rail of board … this helps. Damn that sounds pretty easy but NOT. Takes practice but looks hella comfortable.

So for now I think I am just flipping and hanging on. I really haven’t put much thought in this yet. Lower on my list of surf technique priorities. Speaking of turtles … those big and little guys are all over the place at this surf break! Their facial expressions when taking a breath looks as if they held their breath too long and just made it up for a gasp of air (kind of like my turtle experience … well what do you know.).

Right before hitting the shore and sandy point to jump off the board, I felt like I bumped the reef … as it was low tide. But I don’t remember reef or rocks being that close to the surface in that area. So I decide to jump off the board to avoid hitting more rocks. I look back to take off my leash and low and behold a gasping turtle face pops up for air. I bumped into the turtle and they do scare me when they pop up out of the water … especially if I don’t see them first.

On that note I was told you need to look out for these guys while on a wave since hitting them could damage your board … or worse the turtles! Damn hazards to avoid … so surfing can turn into a real-life video game. Thus the necessity of knowing how to steer your board. It  all involves core strength and movement, like doing yoga on your board. Turn shoulders and shift weight and hips. This is something I am playing around with once I’m on a wave.

My positioning and location on the board determines speed while on the board, prone placement on the surfboard while paddling to drop in for a wave, different wave timing and paddling strength crucial as it determines whether you will pearl or fall out of a wave. These require a little more wave knowledge. I am not there yet but I do know when to pull out of a wave or how to avoid pearling – TIP ONE: longboard nose in the water … pull out or you will pearl!!! By the way, your surfboard pearling = board turning you into human catapult. When nose catches in water it back flips you like a pancake being flipped over… it literally launches you forward! Surreal to have this happen to you for the first time!

So much to remember! But just take mental notes, and work on each one at a time. Gung Ho!

…

The Surf Pop-Up:
I got up on the very first wave, and took it for a long ride in. It’s quite an accomplishment now that I am messing around on my surfboard, trying to steer it, and learning how to speed it up as friends have told me how to do it. I realized during this session that I was popping up but upon self-check I realized I was not popping up per se but slowly standing. Damn it!

So, with this fix in mind, the next wave I caught I had “pop up” in my head. Oh yeah, I literally popped up so high that I think I caught some air for a split second above the board, and my feet landed a bit forward from where I intended. Kind of like a mini long jump or bunny hop. Of course I was off balance and couldn’t stay up, and I ended up in the water but came up laughing. Wow that was a blast off; What the hell just happened?

So needless to say, in my determination to use proper technique, I ended up surfing a rather inconsistent session after that – I was not so consistent with getting up on the board but glad no bad habits developing.

Paddling for Waves:
Second note of the day: paddling speed. ‘Kay, I am paddling in what I see as the same observable manner as everybody else, but I want to know why da hell are they faster? I don’t get it. I can be right behind another surfer on a wave as we try to paddle for it, and before I know it she’s gone! Left me in da dust. Similarly, I see these surf instructors out there paddling like they’re on nitrous oxide, but their arms are not a blur of arms paddling. It’s just this smooth, rhythmic paddling, and their arms don’t even look like they go very deep into the water.

Surf Bruises:
The bruises on the knees haven’t stopped. I don’t feel myself hit them but they will just appear in odd places in my knee area. I have a collection of polka dot bruises.

How to Fall while SUrfing:
I am remembering some things from Alii’s I should probably share. The day of the bigger surf…what are you doing after you fall into the white wash? I am relaxed and feeling my body like a rag just being whirled around in every which way, kind of fun.

Then all the warnings came from other surfers: roll up in a ball, get as far away from your board as possible, you don’t want to get hit. Man that bad form was kind fun. So roll up in a ball and cover your head with your arms while in da white wash after a wipeout. GOT IT! Your board becomes your worst enemy at that point, a lethal weapon. How quickly the tides turn.

The Surfer Dismount:
Oh and getting down off your board after you’ve ridden as far as possible … remember not to just fall off … you have to take the Nestea plunge (old school commercial)… fall backwards butt first to avoid hitting the reef, especially in shallow areas in Hawaii.

I guess when you get better you can pull out of da wave and turn like you see those advanced surfers do it eh? Or maybe not being on a longboard, things are somewhat different when you rip da shorter boards.

Until then I’ll gladly take the Nestea plunge. That only signals a good ride; a celebration at the end!
…

Perhaps the power was too strong for a 4th time out surfer causing over-stimulation in da head and blanked out da mind from thinking. I could not even stand up, but I was catching the waves, or perhaps they were catching me.

That was key, I felt, so I practiced being in da white wash and wiping out. That was kind of fun and necessary I felt; like being desensitized. I was able to stick out a 2 hour surf session, giving full credit to a healthy regimen of hiking – I was in good cardio condition.

You develop strange relationship with awareness of self out in the water.

On the fifth day, I went back to Ali’i Beach. The initial outing turned out to be a good day … no fear … but this time was different. I had a strange feeling going on from somewhere inside me, but I kept pushing through it. I paddled out into the water and out to the lineup, and there it was as clear as day – some kind of turmoil. Things became crystal clear out there; you leave the world behind and enter this place of only one thought, surf. Maybe this helped to eliminate other thoughts, and helped to see the remaining feeling related to the moment of my internal mini turmoil. This little flicker of fear in my chest … what was it?

You can’t talk much out on the water, and time for your mind to process is always disrupted by the next set of waves that come rolling in. So kept quiet and thinking about what to do. I never felt this before and my urge was to power through it … much like the way I dealt with my own fearx about paddling out and surfing for the first time.

But this tiny flicker sidelined me; it kept me past the break, and drifted me further than any other surfer away from shore. And that’s when it hit – a rogue 6 foote wave came rolling in and the cresting wave broke right over me. I readily surrendered to the flicker in my chest after tumbling in the biggest washing machine I had ever been party to.

I paddled back into the steady and sure sands of the beach. Sometimes you just can’t paddle out and you may not understand why. I say, listen to your body. My own internal system was warning me, but since this was a new feeling, I operated based on past experiences. I disregarded the warning sign from da soul. It was almost like a premonition as to what would happen. But, I must encourage others, you have to keep going out.

Friends keep asking if I have the passion yet … that feeling inside that calls you back to the ocean no matter what. Honestly, by my 6th day of surfing, I only had the desire, not the passion. It was still feeling like a chore to be out there. Work. Not fun yet. Last one in the water, just dragging my butt, not entirely enthusiastic about the process, but making myself go out.

That day, my 6th day of surfing, I paddled out with power, and as soon as I reached the line up and saw a good wave, something happened. I did not even stop to sit up on board just turned and started paddling. BOOM! I ’m on the wave, and I’m up and riding for a while too! A moment of disbelief washed over me, then a pure moment of joy replaced it. I was cheering my own accomplishment; I became my own applauding audience.

Oh yeah, and every wave after that I was on and upright, to some degree. Somehow I obtained more paddling strength to catch the weaker waves of Puaena now. The quieter waves also made it possible for me to pop up on my board now with less distraction of dealing with overpowering waves.

How sweet is that? Surprised and having a blast now! Riding tandem waves with other surfers, laughing and smiling.

Oh yeah I got it, the passion has arrived.

…