I haven’t been surfing regularly, more like sporadically, but I remember a few things to share – a surf-condensed version of the past month or so …
People don’t like to surf when it is choppy because it is tiring as hell. It’s just not the same … having to paddle more to stay in one [...]
After a long dry spell, I am finally back in the water! I managed to get myself out to Alii Beach (see my experiences at this break here and here) for a session with a lineup of virtual strangers, but we made conversation while out on the water.
The waves were pretty small, which made for [...]
This is the first time someone asked me that question directly: Are you a surfer? I hesitated for a second to think about that deep question … and decided I was indeed a surfer, so I answered yes.
But I still had to qualify my answer by saying it has only been a month of surfing [...]
During my last surf session, in my quest to improve as a surfer, I came across a pleasant issue. As I am beginning to ride longer waves, as well as playing around with turning and moving up and down on the long board … I have noticed the rail (the side of the surfboard) dips [...]
My recent surf session was a great success! I paddled out not so enthusiastically about going, but I am after all still on my voyage to attaining surf passion …
I paddled out and caught the very first wave that came across my path, surprisingly even before I could even sit up to wait around [...]
I paddled out at Ali’i Beach in Haleiwa today, and found myself feeling fearful. It had been a while since I last went out, but I couldn’t understand why I was fearful. I was inside … looking out at the waves on the outer break that I had paddled out to before. The waves looked bigger and [...]
Yesterday was a short but sweet session. I managed to Squeeze in ’bout 20 minutes. I didn’t know why da heck I was going out for such a short time … but well worth it. I had more success during yesterday’s session than the longer one the day before.
In case I haven’t mentioned this [...]
Yesterday was my first day surfing after a few days off … seems like a while since my last time out. I think this makes 7 days on the water, 1 week of actual surfing. As anxious as I was, it always seems so hard to paddle out and decide what to do at each [...]
My first surf session at Puaena Point was a challenge – not able to catch waves and difficulty popping up. The waves were not powerful enough, and I didn’t have paddle strength to drop in. This particular outing, I ventured to Haleiwa’s famous Ali’i Beach and caught all the waves, because they had more power.
Perhaps the [...]
Surfing is new to me … and everything is so foreign. Getting sock on and off of the surfboard… don’t know how to do it.
Awkward.
How to rinse the surfboard, how to put it on ground,how to deal with a long surfboard on a windy day? … all new. Is it okay to put it on [...]
The moment a person gets hooked into surfing – when you know that they will forever join the chosen few who passionately pursue the sport – is simple to pin point … just look for the unbreaking smile from ear to ear when they catch their first several waves. Look around at your local line [...]
