Is it true that expectations can only bring pain? And expectations only bring disappointment? Don’t expect much so that you are thrilled with what little you get? Those thoughts ran through my head as the events of my life unfolded in front of me. Negativity and sadness begot more negativity and sadness. Then a friend [...]
On Friday, I went for my first surf in a month. It was wonderful! I went with some friends – Noe, Nat and Rich. We turned up at the only viable spot, where it was breaking one to two foot. It was small, but the waves were lovely and clean and they were breaking all [...]
“A goal is not always meant to be reached, it often serves simply as something to aim at.” Goals serve as something to aim for, so don’t get too hung up on reaching them. Focus on enjoying the journey and the process. If you’re hiking on a beautiful trail, your goal is to get to your [...]
I took my first yoga class after a running injury left me unable to do much else. Imagine my surprise when what I thought would be an hour of light stretching left me sweaty and sore in muscles I didn’t even know I had. But I was hooked—it didn’t take long for me to fall in love [...]
I have a more than healthy respect for salt water, currents, rips, tides, storms, waves, gutters, schools of fish (flocks of birds), and scary conditions. I learned my limits and I learned that you are never quite in control. I learned that there are risks.
It amazes me how many mature women have considered the sport of surfing, but think it’s strictly for the young. As one who started surfing at age forty-four, I believe it’s never too late. And once you start, there’s no reason to stop. Thirteen years of teaching women to surf has taught me some things. [...]
Surfers seem happier, healthier, and most of all younger than most people … if not physically, then definitely in spirit and passion. According to most surfers, the mystical bond that a surfer has with mother ocean and their surfboard is almost impossible to explain to those who do not surf – that not many activities [...]
This may sound like an over simplification, but there is no greater truth out in the open ocean: happy surfers all share similar (if not the same) happy habits. It’s as simple as that. The happiest surfers I know share seven very obvious habits. If you’re looking to expand your general happiness, you may consider [...]
What does the word “aloha” mean to you? Aloha “Hello”? Aloha “Goodbye”? What else? As a visitor, when you arrive in Hawaii, you are often greeted with “aloha,” a word that almost every person with access to reruns of Hawaii Five-O knows, at least loosely. But it’s so much more than a mere greeting, much like [...]
“Hey, I have something to tell you, but you can’t tell anyone” they said “OK” I reply They leaned their head to mine and whispered to me what no one else is to know. In my head, I thought, Thanks. For a lack of any other emotion or thought. I sit in my boss’s office [...]
It’s been a turbulent few months. Everything that had been familiar to me for almost 7 years came to an end. The shell of a person that I was, was forced to grow. The person that I used to be needed to brought back to the surface, tweaked, made better and brought back to life. [...]
Pearling is when you paddle for a wave and the nose of your board goes under water, followed by you and all you see is the tail of the board shot straight up in the air.
Meet Sissy and Lois. Two women who do not know each other, and for all intent and purpose will not ever meet each other. But they are bound together by surfing, and how it has affected their lives. Learning to surf is serious business for Sissy … she approaches it with much excitement and methodical [...]
As I sit at work away from my ocean comfort, reading my e-mail, sending e-mail, and involuntarily listening to people on the phone … a couple of things come to mind. What if you could just be nice? Is it really that difficult? I know you find pleasure in being such a bitch, but what [...]
I have a very hard time making decisions. Most of the major decisions in my life, where I went to junior college, university, who I have dated, where I live, have been made at the last minute without much thought as to why, just with feeling or reaction. Whenever I get stuck inside my head, [...]
