We all like to have control.
We like the idea that if we complete a measured task, we will get a measured result. Parts of life operate like this. You can go to work and expect to get your weekly pay. You can get on the train and expect to end up at [...]
When you first hear the words surf and yoga together, you may conjure images of a swami sitting cross-legged on a paisley long board, coasting effortlessly through the clouds to a soundtrack of “Ohmmmm…”
Not quite.
Surf Yoga is a growing phenomenon amongst surfers with an interest in yoga, and yoga practitioners with a taste for the [...]
BE PATIENT (oh so very patient!)
It takes a long time to learn to surf … and even longer to master it. Surfing is flat out hard and one should not expect to be ripping waves on their first day out. If you want a basic feeling about learning to surf, it is basically an exercise [...]
If you pay attention to the surfers at the beach preparing to paddle out into the line up, you may notice most devotees to the sport are partial to stretching. As you watch them contorting into poses that gear them up for hours of surfing fun, some familiar poses may begin to appear – downward-facing [...]
As surfers, we see life from a very unique and enviable place – the ocean waves. This place we call home, where the waves break into wonderful surf, allows most surfers to look at our regular lives from a distance. On a regular basis, we leave our scholastic, personal, and professional lives on an invisible [...]
I love this quote, and it speaks to me at this present moment … for right now, I am being tossed around in the “sudsy” goodness of a rather large sized wave as it pummels me into the washing machione cycle of the ocean.
It’s all about constantly being in the now; knowing you don’t get [...]
If you’re a surfer, you’ll probably agree that the sport is hard on the body. You’re playing on an unstable surface with uncertain elements. Most spots in Indonesia aren’t for the slight of bicep or faint of heart; you’re often battling sharp reefs or 5 knots current (at Nusa Dua) to make it out. How, [...]
Call it what you want – leg rope, surfboard leash, kook cord – but plainly put, a leash is something that connects a surfer to the surfboard. It serves a number of purposes, such as not letting your board get away from you, a safety device for flotation, allow you to kick your board away from [...]
What is it about surfers? Even on the smallest of surf days they seem to be out there in the ocean hooting and having a swell time … almost always a picturesque moment frozen in time as they glide down the waves. Ask them … those crazy board riding people as to why they pursue [...]
We all saw that Friends episode (c’mon, you watch it, too!) when Monica gets stung by a jellyfish, and Joey remembers that peeing on a jellyfish sting takes the pain away. BUT don’t believe everything you see on TV!
Most jellyfish stings cause only pain and numbness, while the Australian box jellyfish is the most venomous and deadly [...]
Stoke is the experience of dynamic, dynamite-like movement and of standstill shock, at one and the same time.
Mystics would say this is an experience of eternity—eternity merely unending time, nor the mere absence of time, but the presence of all time at one present moment. I think this explains the deep happiness that both experiences [...]
Surf movies are an integral part of surf culture, they are what helps to give surfing a presence outside of the sport’s own followers (for example Endless Summer and Big Wednesday) whilst stoking the fire to get in the water for even the most seasoned surfer (The Modern Collective, The Momentum Series etc). So the question [...]
Every surfer dreams of having that edge over other surfers, whether its a wicked-bad bottom turn that makes all the Bettys swoon, a longer noseride time trimming effortlessly down the line, or even a killer drop-knee turn on those long, rolling waves that recall the style and grace of endless summers gone by. Ah yes, [...]
Green army men. My childhood memories are full of countless hours of being on my stomach, floor or dirt, staring down dozens upon dozens of brightly colored green army men. Frozen in amazingly epic poses, these little soldiers exploded through my young mind in an imaginary telling of battles and wars that out-exploded and out-dramatized [...]
The recent 10 to 16 foot waves that pounded Maine’s coastline as a result of category 1 Hurricane Bill seemed to serve as a beacon to surfers from all over the Eastern seaboard. Although there were unfortunate casualties that resulted from nature’s romp through the east coast, it seems that the old addage that a [...]
