If you have ever thought that your surfing sessions and/or style could benefit from a cross-training regimen, then you more than likely have heard of the original Carveboard. To call this thing a skateboard would be an insult to both boards … so let us get the fact that this is NOT a skateboard out [...]
Arguably the most fantastic surfing ad ever made, The “Surfer”, was designed to promote world famous beer Guinness by director Jonathan Glazer. The TV campaign told the story of a Polynesian surfer who managed to ride a very big wave, under pretty interesting circumstances: white horses were running with enormous power behind the huge wave. [...]
This is the second attempt to remake “Hawaii Five-O” (1968). The first had been Hawaii-Five O (1997), which featured Grace Park’s Romeo Must Die (2000) costar Russell Wong.
If you pay attention to the surfers at the beach preparing to paddle out into the line up, you may notice most devotees to the sport are partial to stretching. As you watch them contorting into poses that gear them up for hours of surfing fun, some familiar poses may begin to appear – downward-facing [...]
Beginning surfers often quietly share with me that they feel like giving up on the sport altogether, often due to the perception that they “just can’t seem to get it right“. Although I know plenty of surfers that would revel in the reduction of numbers in the lineup as a result of “learning-fallout”, it needs [...]
What is it about surfers? Relaxed, easy-going, they seem to be the epitome of “chill”. Although movies have streotyped surfers as lazy and as hapless potheads, the surfers of today are all but stereotypical. Look at today’s line-up and you will see doctors, lawyers, professionals, teachers … all kinds! The thing that makes them surfers [...]
As recently as 1971, surf leashes were called “kook cords” by a surfing world that grew up thinking that a surfer must pay for his mistakes by swimming. – Ben Marcus, surfline.com
Nobody really mentions this in surfing etiquette lists, but if you mess up and accidentally drop in or mess up someone’s wave, a quick apology is appreciated, and goes a long way to reducing tension in crowded lineups. You don’t have to grovel at their feet (well, unless you did something horrible). Honestly, if you [...]
Did someone teach you how to surf? If you are like me, my friends, and most surfers, then no one taught you how to surf. You may have paddled out with someone who knew how to surf, and they gave you a few pointers, but for the most part you figured it out on your own. [...]
A mature person is one who is does not think only in absolutes, who is able to be objective even when deeply stirred emotionally, who has learned that there is both good and bad in all people and all things, and who walks humbly and deals charitably. – Eleanor Roosevelt
To make mistakes is human; to stumble is commonplace; to be able to laugh at yourself is maturity. – William Arthur Ward
The recent 10 to 16 foot waves that pounded Maine’s coastline as a result of category 1 Hurricane Bill seemed to serve as a beacon to surfers from all over the Eastern seaboard. Although there were unfortunate casualties that resulted from nature’s romp through the east coast, it seems that the old addage that a [...]
Just how dedicated of a surfer do you think you are? You surf more than once a day, work out and train for the ocean every day, and you swim across Waimea Bay a dozen times back and forth for endurance. Perhaps you even eat healthy and have given up the drink altogether for a [...]
It is seldom that an American retires from business to enjoy his fortune in comfort. He works because he has always worked, and knows no other way. – Thomas Nichols
Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you’ve done it. – by Paul Strauch … Leonard Lueras’ Surfing Hawaii
