In the living room of my house my surfboards and couch are on opposites walls facing each other. As I sat on the couch with a friend we started talking about surfing. “So you hang out on the nose when you surf?” No, not really hang out, I replied. “You surf North Shore when it’s [...]
The other day, a group of us were driving home after an unusually small but fun surf day. The post surf conversation turned to surf cameras and water proof video cameras, and expectedly towards finding one of said devices and taking videos of our upcoming surf sessions. Sounds good right? So after someone in the car openly [...]
Surfing has rewarded me with many incredible memories and a few really great friends. While talking with one of these friends the other day, on a small, inconsistent day I was reminded of how we met and our first conversation in the water….. It was mid-afternoon on an overcast, winters day in Waikiki. I paddled [...]
You can’t stop the waves, but you can learn to surf. – Jon Kabat-Zinn
For as long as I can remember I have had very vivid dreams. Sometimes disturbing nightmares that wake me in the middle of night, some blissful images of intense happiness and some just random scenes that don’t seem to make sense. Even though they can vary greatly I have always felt blessed that I can [...]
I am sitting in my office staring at my monitor. In front of me is a blank white page of a Word document that will end up being more than 50 pages. The document is slated to be a comprehensive organization wide plan and procedure due in exactly 35 hours. I sit back in my [...]
… Buying the correct surf board is important when learning how to surf; start out with a bigger, thicker board at first, or even a foam board; learn more about buying your first surf board in this free surfing video clip. ( Expert: Schell Michael, Schell began surfing at the age of 4, but at age 15 [...]
Everyday there are choices that I make that I am becoming more and more aware of. The choice to stay late at work, or catch up with a friend. The choice to stop and have a healthy lunch, or work through lunch to maybe leave for home before the sun goes down. In the movie The [...]
One of the internet lists I received a while back contained this item of interest: “Nothing sucks more than that moment during an argument when you realize you’re wrong.” It was an opportune moment when I read this, since I had just finished one of those internal monologues with myself about one of the character [...]
I’ve lost my mind again among a pile of papers. I can see bits and pieces of it. Part of it with those pages stacked in my inbox and another part with the stack of papers to my left. Yet, still another, small piece of my mind has escaped to the outside. To a world [...]
Thinking positively is a great way to keep your brain alive. Constant negative thinking depresses the mind and goes on to literally depress the immune system. Thinking more positive thoughts is a good way to keep stress down and spur you to take action for a better life.
Recently a friend of mine said he just didn’t feel like surfing anymore. Waking up early for dawn patrol has been a daily ritual in his life for the past few years. Now, suddenly, he doesn’t feel like it anymore? Perhaps it has gotten too routine for him. Maybe he isn’t pushing himself in the [...]
So I write, occasionally. Whatever comes to mind. Sometimes the thoughts just flow and end up becoming a story. Other times I take individual thoughts and string them together in an attempt to draw a line between two completely differently worlds and look like a genius or an intellectual. Either way, in the end, the [...]
When I was in high school I was fascinated by two girls, Erin and Amber. They were best friends and popular, but not in the cheerleader or rich-kid kind of popular. No, they were the rebels. They cut class, they dabbled in illegal substances, they gave teachers attitude. All while managing to look fashionable with [...]
Growing up I was always taught that you give your full attention to the task or person you are with. If I had a friend over and the phone rang, I wouldn’t chat on the phone because I had company. I would let the person on the phone know I was busy and call them [...]
