BE PATIENT (oh so very patient!) It takes a long time to learn to surf … and even longer to master it. Surfing is flat out hard and one should not expect to be ripping waves on their first day out. If you want a basic feeling about learning to surf, it is basically an [...]
Is it true that expectations can only bring pain? And expectations only bring disappointment? Don’t expect much so that you are thrilled with what little you get? Those thoughts ran through my head as the events of my life unfolded in front of me. Negativity and sadness begot more negativity and sadness. Then a friend [...]
For years I was in a relationship that did not compliment or push me the way that I believe I need and is meant for me. Once it ended, I began to hear what people may or may not have been saying to or about me for the years I was in the relationship. “You [...]
What’s so special about surfing? Whats so special about the wind? Surfing is to… be with that mystery. To ride that mystery for as long as you can. And then when its over thats cool because you know what? You were there, in line and on time.
“Hey, I have something to tell you, but you can’t tell anyone” they said “OK” I reply They leaned their head to mine and whispered to me what no one else is to know. In my head, I thought, Thanks. For a lack of any other emotion or thought. I sit in my boss’s office [...]
It’s been a turbulent few months. Everything that had been familiar to me for almost 7 years came to an end. The shell of a person that I was, was forced to grow. The person that I used to be needed to brought back to the surface, tweaked, made better and brought back to life. [...]
I have not always been smart about sun protection. My ignorance is displayed on my skin with spots from too much sun. As I get older I am getting smarter. I used to try out many different sunblocks but was always left with more sun than I wanted after two hours or so in the [...]
Pearling is when you paddle for a wave and the nose of your board goes under water, followed by you and all you see is the tail of the board shot straight up in the air.
As I sit at work away from my ocean comfort, reading my e-mail, sending e-mail, and involuntarily listening to people on the phone … a couple of things come to mind. What if you could just be nice? Is it really that difficult? I know you find pleasure in being such a bitch, but what [...]
Living in Hawai’i, it is not uncommon to see famous people. Some on vacation, some filming movies, some playing concerts. Most people just leave them alone and let them enjoy their time. A recent surf session to the North Shore caused us to cross paths with one of these movie stars. We had been in [...]
Anyone who knows me knows how much I dislike wearing shoes. I prefer to be barefoot or wearing slippers. I love slippers! As I look across my room to my shoe rack, I see 5 pairs, plus I have 2 pairs in the car and 1 outside my door. They range from the $5.00 rubber [...]
I have a very hard time making decisions. Most of the major decisions in my life, where I went to junior college, university, who I have dated, where I live, have been made at the last minute without much thought as to why, just with feeling or reaction. Whenever I get stuck inside my head, [...]
For the second time in my life, the person I recently broke up with is moving. Just as suddenly as the first time, there is no reason or explanation, just a frenzied rush to get out of where they are. They say the will be quitting their job, selling their house, and heading out to [...]
In the living room of my house my surfboards and couch are on opposites walls facing each other. As I sat on the couch with a friend we started talking about surfing. “So you hang out on the nose when you surf?” No, not really hang out, I replied. “You surf North Shore when it’s [...]
The other day, a group of us were driving home after an unusually small but fun surf day. The post surf conversation turned to surf cameras and water proof video cameras, and expectedly towards finding one of said devices and taking videos of our upcoming surf sessions. Sounds good right? So after someone in the car openly [...]
