The Importance of Surfing in Hawaii
The Importance of Surfing in Hawaii
September 29, 2010 | Posted in Surfer's Log | Read More »
Archive for ‘September, 2010’
Have Surfboard, Will Travel …
I have spent a lot of time at airports lately and have become quite adept at sleeping sitting up, as well as digesting food that slightly resembles the taste of cardboard. On a recent stop at Detroit Metro Airport (DTW) headed for the warm surf of Nicaragua, I stood in line with this unfortunate surfer [...]
September 28, 2010 | Posted in Surfer's Log | Read More »
Six Essential Tips for a Surf Trip
Ever since Bruce Brown let loose upon the surf world his “travel documentary” Endless Summer, the idea of travelling around the globe in pursuit of waves has been a much sought-after dream for surfers of all ages. From tiny groms to seasoned old fogeys, the romanticized dream of hopping on an airplane with nothing more than [...]
Zippers and the YKK Mystery
We finally found out why almost all zippers on everything we own have the letters “YKK” molded on them! The YKK stands for Yoshida Kogyo Kabushikikaisha (say that five times fast). In 1934 Tadao Yoshida founded Yoshida Kogyo Kabushikikaisha (translated Yoshida Industries Limited). This company is now the worlds foremost zipper manufacturer … making about [...]
September 24, 2010 | Posted in To The Shore | Read More »
A Guide to Surfing with a PLAN
Ali Hale wrote an article on her blog about creating more time in your day, and it got me to thinking about the same thing with regards to surfing. Although you cannot actually create more time – I checked and even Einstein couldn’t get his hands around that task – the management of tasks and [...]
September 22, 2010 | Posted in Learning to Surf | Read More »
The Body
The rain started early this morning. A slow, soft drizzle, but with evident undertones that it intended to get harder. Almost warning us to take cover. We sat next to her bed. Counting the seconds between her breathes, 5 seconds, she lay asleep; 7 seconds; no movement but her chest rising and falling; 12 seconds, [...]
September 21, 2010 | Posted in To The Shore | Read More »
Old Surfers, Uninterrupted
FOR 25 years, Dr. Warren M. Patch has kept regular office hours. Mornings, the 55-year-old chiropractor sees patients from 9 to noon; afternoons, from 3 to 6. And noon to 3? “Doc Patch is gone surfing,” said Scott Harrison, 52, a computer network engineer and surfer himself, who comes to Doc for the chronic upper back [...]
September 17, 2010 | Posted in Surfer's Log | Read More »
Mainlander’s Tips on Surviving Hawaii’s locals and Big Surf
I suppose they are really not secrets, but surviving the locals and big surf that the Hawaiian Islands has to offer can be quite a chore. First off I would say always use common sense when you are thinking about surfing a new surf break. If you are a beginning surfer, and you think you [...]
September 16, 2010 | Posted in Home Break | Read More »
Surfing: How to Balance Love, Responsibility, and Relationships
You may indeed have stumbled across the existential crisis which faces all dedicated surfers at some point in their lives: “How does a dedicated surfer balance love, responsibility, and relationships with a surf lifestyle?” It’s the great risk which comes with any great passion: that one day, your passion will ask too much of you, [...]
September 15, 2010 | Posted in Learning to Surf | Read More »
Biting an Itch You Can’t Scratch
As children growing up, we trusted everything our parents told us. In our very tiny, wide-open, and impressionable eyes they were gods whose knowledge and vision transcended everything. Our parents seemed to know when we were sneaking around in every corner of the house, they knew when we weren’t sleeping under the covers and pretending to [...]
September 13, 2010 | Posted in To The Shore | Read More »
Quote: Tony Hawk on Business
My advice is to follow your heart and do it because you love it. Do something that you would do even if you didn’t get paid, and everything else falls into place from there. Even if it’s not a huge financial success, you will still be happy. These things that I’m doing, I would do [...]
September 13, 2010 | Posted in Mini-Posts | Read More »
The Law of the Garbage Truck
How often do you let other people’s nonsense change your mood? Do you let a bad driver, rude waiter, curt boss, or an insensitive employee ruin your day? Unless you’re the Terminator, you’re probably set back on your heels. However, the mark of your success is how quickly you can refocus on what’s important in [...]
September 9, 2010 | Posted in Home Break | Read More »
The Surfing Analogy
A few years ago I spent a year living in Hawaii on Oahu. I was going through a rough patch…the adage “release that which no longer serves you” was an elusive intangible notion that I wasn’t ready to apply to my life. I took up surfing, longboarding to be exact. I was more into the [...]
September 8, 2010 | Posted in H20 Wahines | Read More »
The Life of Surfboard Shapers
Somewhere in California, Florida or Hawaii … someone is painstakingly sculpting a block of polyurethane foam into one of the most unique products the United States has ever produced: a surfboard. Using knowledge handed down from “shapers” and surfers over hundreds of years, the craftsman sands here and there along the blank until, eventually, it [...]
September 7, 2010 | Posted in Surfer's Log | Read More »
Balancing Kids, Careers and Monster Surf
It’s 4:30 a.m. in Santa Cruz. While most exhausted parents are fast asleep, big-wave surfing couple Sarah and Mike Gerhardt are tiptoeing past their children’s room and starting their day together with wetsuits, surfboards and prayer. “We get up early, and that’s our time to connect,” Mike says. “We read the Bible together, we pray [...]
September 6, 2010 | Posted in Surfer's Log | Read More »
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