If you’ve done any surfing, then I’m sure you’ve been beaten up by the ocean once or twice. Surfers are notorious for trying to “work through” their injuries and not seek medical attention. They would much rather continue to surf in pain than be told that they need step away from the beach for a [...]
We all like to have control. We like the idea that if we complete a measured task, we will get a measured result. Parts of life operate like this. You can go to work and expect to get your weekly pay. You can get on the train and expect to end up at your destination. [...]
All I ever really needed to know [as a surfer], I learned in kindergarten. It’s true! I just was not aware of it until I read a book of that title by Robert Fulghum. Apparently, surf wisdom is not at the top of the ‘pro circuit’ heap after all, it was there in the sand pile [...]
It’s a wonder that this sport we all love so much is called surfing at all, since we are actually paddling about 90 percent of the time when we are out in the water! Although the glory is in ripping wicked-bad bottom turns and busting out massive air, much of the work in getting into [...]
No matter who you are or what you do, there’s a common force that’s driving that shapes your emotions and behavior. It determines how you live, the quality of life and ultimately your destiny. This universal force is the human need. Irrespective of where you are in the world, what culture you are from, what color, [...]
Change is not something that we should fear. Rather, it is something that we should welcome. For without change, nothing in this world would ever grow or blossom, and no one in this world would ever move forward to become the person they’re meant to be.
When you first hear the words surf and yoga together, you may conjure images of a swami sitting cross-legged on a paisley long board, coasting effortlessly through the clouds to a soundtrack of “Ohmmmm…” Not quite. Surf Yoga is a growing phenomenon amongst surfers with an interest in yoga, and yoga practitioners with a taste [...]
BE PATIENT (oh so very patient!) It takes a long time to learn to surf … and even longer to master it. Surfing is flat out hard and one should not expect to be ripping waves on their first day out. If you want a basic feeling about learning to surf, it is basically an [...]
Yeah! Why not try surfing? How hard could it be? It will be fun! This is how the surfing bug gets started … first, you are sitting there minding your own business, merrily going about your routines and schedule, and out of the blue, the surfing bug bites you right smack in your busy behind. It [...]
If you pay attention to the surfers at the beach preparing to paddle out into the line up, you may notice most devotees to the sport are partial to stretching. As you watch them contorting into poses that gear them up for hours of surfing fun, some familiar poses may begin to appear – downward-facing [...]
It has been six months since I last paddled out into the water, and my quickly aching muscles remind me of how much work it takes to paddle out into the lineup. But the ocean feels so familiar, so much like home, that the aches and pain are easily set aside in lieu of the [...]
Every surfer that has begun to move away from the world of surf instructors and beginner breaks, and onto the singular form of learning and fabled “home breaks” knows how critical it is to get the “pop-up” just right. Over anticipate the pop-up and you can ensure that you’ll be watching the back of the [...]
As surfers, we see life from a very unique and enviable place – the ocean waves. This place we call home, where the waves break into wonderful surf, allows most surfers to look at our regular lives from a distance. On a regular basis, we leave our scholastic, personal, and professional lives on an invisible [...]
I love this quote, and it speaks to me at this present moment … for right now, I am being tossed around in the “sudsy” goodness of a rather large sized wave as it pummels me into the washing machione cycle of the ocean. It’s all about constantly being in the now; knowing you don’t [...]
One of the most common things you’ll hear a surfer say when asked about how much time they spend in the water is “Of course I surf every day that I can, it keeps you from going nuts.” True, There is an entirely spiritual and zen side to the sport of surfing that gives us [...]
