(… above is a great clip of the king of longboarding, and undisputed style master, Joel Tudor, showing us how it’s done!) … My name is Kaya, and I am a longboarder. Up until the arrival of stand-up paddle boards, longboarders were looked upon by most shortboarders as wave hogs and dangerous log riders in [...]
In surfing, you’re either a right foot or a left foot – meaning the foot you lead with and the one you attach the leash to. The rear foot you use for balance. If you lead with your right foot, you’re a goofy foot. I used to be a left foot (regular stance), but then [...]
Call it what you want – leg rope, surfboard leash, kook cord – but plainly put, a leash is something that connects a surfer to the surfboard. It serves a number of purposes, such as not letting your board get away from you, a safety device for flotation, allow you to kick your board away from you [...]
Summer is here, and the sudden upswing of sunscreen and sunblock sales is an indicator of the increased number of people rushing to the beaches. But in a recent study released last month by the Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit public health advocacy group, only 8 percent of 700 sunscreen products it evaluated were recommended [...]
Major advances have been made over the last two decades with regards to the science and public information regarding the potentially harmful effects of long-term sun exposure. And although equally landmark leaps have been made in the world of sun protection in the past 20 years, Zinc Oxide is still by far the superior ingredient in [...]
Is it true that expectations can only bring pain? And expectations only bring disappointment? Don’t expect much so that you are thrilled with what little you get? Those thoughts ran through my head as the events of my life unfolded in front of me. Negativity and sadness begot more negativity and sadness. Then a friend [...]
On Friday, I went for my first surf in a month. It was wonderful! I went with some friends – Noe, Nat and Rich. We turned up at the only viable spot, where it was breaking one to two foot. It was small, but the waves were lovely and clean and they were breaking all [...]
What is it about surfers? Relaxed, easy-going, they seem to be the epitome of “chill”. Although movies have streotyped surfers as lazy and as hapless potheads, the surfers of today are all but stereotypical. Look at today’s line-up and you will see doctors, lawyers, professionals, teachers … all kinds! The thing that makes them surfers [...]
As recently as 1971, surf leashes were called “kook cords” by a surfing world that grew up thinking that a surfer must pay for his mistakes by swimming. – Ben Marcus, surfline.com
What is it about surfers? Even on the smallest of surf days they seem to be out there in the ocean hooting and having a swell time … almost always a picturesque moment frozen in time as they glide down the waves. Ask them … those crazy board riding people as to why they pursue [...]
For years I was in a relationship that did not compliment or push me the way that I believe I need and is meant for me. Once it ended, I began to hear what people may or may not have been saying to or about me for the years I was in the relationship. “You [...]
I personally know a few families that are making that giant leap, and for reasons of work or school – and lifestyle – have decided to live in Hawaii. Since I have seen many people come and go, some with relative ease and others with personal frustration, here is a list of etiquette tips I [...]
The long term newbie must understand that he or she falls under a different light for other surfers than short term of vacationing surfers. Whereas short term surfers come and go, and by that nature is easier to ignore as potential dangers … long term newbies will more than likely show up at the same [...]
If you fall, it’s just water. If you aren’t falling, you aren’t learning. These simple rules dance in my head as a code for life. They remind me to be light-hearted during every surf session- on the beach before paddling out, as I’m gliding carelessly down the wave, and when I ride the last one [...]
What’s so special about surfing? Whats so special about the wind? Surfing is to… be with that mystery. To ride that mystery for as long as you can. And then when its over thats cool because you know what? You were there, in line and on time.
