I have a more than healthy respect for salt water, currents, rips, tides, storms, waves, gutters, schools of fish (flocks of birds), and scary conditions. I learned my limits and I learned that you are never quite in control. I learned that there are risks.
In our lives we will encounter many challenges, and tomorrow we face one together. How we accept the challenge and attack the challenge head on is only about us–no one can touch that. If we win or lose this weekend, it will not make a difference in our lives. But why we play and how [...]
Living in Honolulu is a wonderful thing … I love this island, I love this city, I love this place. One of the things I have been in the habit of doing is “playing tourist” every now and then, so that I can re-orient myself to the truly wonderful things that this place has to [...]
It amazes me how many mature women have considered the sport of surfing, but think it’s strictly for the young. As one who started surfing at age forty-four, I believe it’s never too late. And once you start, there’s no reason to stop. Thirteen years of teaching women to surf has taught me some things. [...]
A late model Dodge Durango has been parked in front of our house for a couple of weeks now. My husband and I live on a short, narrow street in the historical section of Sag Harbor. I have a general disdain of SUVs for obvious, gas-guzzling reasons. I assume their drivers are hoggy, inconsiderate, and [...]
Surfers seem happier, healthier, and most of all younger than most people … if not physically, then definitely in spirit and passion. According to most surfers, the mystical bond that a surfer has with mother ocean and their surfboard is almost impossible to explain to those who do not surf – that not many activities [...]
This may sound like an over simplification, but there is no greater truth out in the open ocean: happy surfers all share similar (if not the same) happy habits. It’s as simple as that. The happiest surfers I know share seven very obvious habits. If you’re looking to expand your general happiness, you may consider [...]
Surf movies are an integral part of surf culture, they are what helps to give surfing a presence outside of the sport’s own followers (for example Endless Summer and Big Wednesday) whilst stoking the fire to get in the water for even the most seasoned surfer (The Modern Collective, The Momentum Series etc). So the question [...]
One of the highest insights in the Buddhist traditions is to realize that the circle of life is, in fact, nirvana: that there is no need to escape because everything is originally pure and perfect. In a small way, surfing has begun to teach me this. - Jaimal Yogis from Shambhala Sun
Surfing is such an amazing concept. You’re taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, ‘I’m gonna ride you!’ And a lot of times Nature says, ‘No you’re not!’ and crashes you to the bottom. – Jolene Blalock
Sun block, sun foundation, hats, gloves, glasses, UV clothing … let’s just say that “Sun Protection” can take many forms especially when you are a surfer exposed to the sun and the elements for a few hours everyday. As any waterman will tell you, the sun is out in full force especially during the hot summer [...]
After a horrific hard drive malfunction, resulting in some serious photo losses at the iJS offices, we promptly scheduled a re-shoot of some surf sequences at one of Oahu’s popular beaches. Our recent review of the watersports head wear WavzCap got a burst of impromptu reviewers as the brightly colored neoprene caps drew the attention [...]
Dear Surf Shop Owners and Employees: I walked into a surf shop at a “village” corner in the heart of Waikiki the other day, and for the first time of having been in and out of hundreds and thousands of surf shops, I felt out of place. The surf store staff was not rude or [...]
I surf everyday, rain or shine … waves or not, I paddle out for at least thirty minutes. I consider this my daily commune with mother ocean. No on taught me this, and no one has to tell me to keep doing it. This morning, I got into thinking about how many people – the [...]
Black Lagoon’s Darkfin gloves came to our offices as a much anticipated product, being fueled by a hot debate as to the actual functionality versus the “appropriateness” of such a product. If you are not familiar with Darkfin gloves, you can get a primer in our NEW STUFF feature, or just continue reading to dive [...]
