Every surfer dreams of having that edge over other surfers, whether its a wicked-bad bottom turn that makes all the Bettys swoon, a longer noseride time trimming effortlessly down the line, or even a killer drop-knee turn on those long, rolling waves that recall the style and grace of endless summers gone by. Ah yes, [...]
“Hey, I have something to tell you, but you can’t tell anyone” they said “OK” I reply They leaned their head to mine and whispered to me what no one else is to know. In my head, I thought, Thanks. For a lack of any other emotion or thought. I sit in my boss’s office [...]
With stylish designs and colors emblazened on its distinctive neoprene make-up, the WavzCap is a bold new entry into the “surf hat” market. WavzCap is the water child idea of of Gail Kotowski, an avid water wahine who saw a need for unique water head wear, and has made short work of creating a practical [...]
It’s been a turbulent few months. Everything that had been familiar to me for almost 7 years came to an end. The shell of a person that I was, was forced to grow. The person that I used to be needed to brought back to the surface, tweaked, made better and brought back to life. [...]
I have not always been smart about sun protection. My ignorance is displayed on my skin with spots from too much sun. As I get older I am getting smarter. I used to try out many different sunblocks but was always left with more sun than I wanted after two hours or so in the [...]
A mature person is one who is does not think only in absolutes, who is able to be objective even when deeply stirred emotionally, who has learned that there is both good and bad in all people and all things, and who walks humbly and deals charitably. – Eleanor Roosevelt
To make mistakes is human; to stumble is commonplace; to be able to laugh at yourself is maturity. – William Arthur Ward
After a long dry spell, I am finally back in the water! I managed to get myself out to Alii Beach (see my experiences at this break here and here) for a session with a lineup of virtual strangers, but we made conversation while out on the water. The waves were pretty small, which made [...]
If you pearl while getting to your feet you either waited too long to catch the wave (you’re late) or your feet are positioned too far forward on your board.
Changing fins can change the way your board feels, and can freshen or improve your surfing … so when iJS was offered a test run on these yet-to-be-released in the U.S.A. set of fins, we could not resist! Scarfini FX2 fins are identical to some higher end / higher price tag fins out on the [...]
Pearling is when you paddle for a wave and the nose of your board goes under water, followed by you and all you see is the tail of the board shot straight up in the air.
Meet Sissy and Lois. Two women who do not know each other, and for all intent and purpose will not ever meet each other. But they are bound together by surfing, and how it has affected their lives. Learning to surf is serious business for Sissy … she approaches it with much excitement and methodical [...]
We do not see things as they are. We see them as we are. -The Talmud
Much of your pain is self-chosen. It is the bitter potion by which the physician within you heals your sick self. Therefore trust the physician, and drink his remedy in silence and tranquility. – Kahlil Gibran
This is the first time someone asked me that question directly: Are you a surfer? I hesitated for a second to think about that deep question … and decided I was indeed a surfer, so I answered yes. But I still had to qualify my answer by saying it has only been a month of [...]
