Living in Hawai’i, it is not uncommon to see famous people. Some on vacation, some filming movies, some playing concerts. Most people just leave them alone and let them enjoy their time. A recent surf session to the North Shore caused us to cross paths with one of these movie stars. We had been in [...]
Yesterday was a short but sweet session. I managed to Squeeze in ’bout 20 minutes. I didn’t know why da heck I was going out for such a short time … but well worth it. I had more success during yesterday’s session than the longer one the day before. In case I haven’t mentioned this [...]
Anyone who knows me knows how much I dislike wearing shoes. I prefer to be barefoot or wearing slippers. I love slippers! As I look across my room to my shoe rack, I see 5 pairs, plus I have 2 pairs in the car and 1 outside my door. They range from the $5.00 rubber [...]
George Downing said to me one day, when I was staying in town and there wasn’t much waves, “we’re going to go ride some mals (longboards). We drove down to Waikiki and surfed . . . the last half-hour of the day . . . and then surfed into the moonlight for another hour or [...]
Just how dedicated of a surfer do you think you are? You surf more than once a day, work out and train for the ocean every day, and you swim across Waimea Bay a dozen times back and forth for endurance. Perhaps you even eat healthy and have given up the drink altogether for a [...]
I have a very hard time making decisions. Most of the major decisions in my life, where I went to junior college, university, who I have dated, where I live, have been made at the last minute without much thought as to why, just with feeling or reaction. Whenever I get stuck inside my head, [...]
Yesterday was my first day surfing after a few days off … seems like a while since my last time out. I think this makes 7 days on the water, 1 week of actual surfing. As anxious as I was, it always seems so hard to paddle out and decide what to do at each [...]
For the second time in my life, the person I recently broke up with is moving. Just as suddenly as the first time, there is no reason or explanation, just a frenzied rush to get out of where they are. They say the will be quitting their job, selling their house, and heading out to [...]
My first surf session at Puaena Point was a challenge – not able to catch waves and difficulty popping up. The waves were not powerful enough, and I didn’t have paddle strength to drop in. This particular outing, I ventured to Haleiwa’s famous Ali’i Beach and caught all the waves, because they had more power. Perhaps [...]
The balance and patience factors are much more critical in surfing than they are in snowboarding … if you’re out surfing serious waves and you wipe out, you don’t land on soft snow. It’s usually either very sharp coral, or you get raked across the beach gravel and sand while you’re tumbling underwater. – Frederick [...]
Any man who can drive safely while kissing a pretty girl is simply not giving the kiss the attention it deserves. – Albert Einstein
Surfing is new to me … and everything is so foreign. Getting sock on and off of the surfboard… don’t know how to do it. Awkward. How to rinse the surfboard, how to put it on ground,how to deal with a long surfboard on a windy day? … all new. Is it okay to put [...]
The moment a person gets hooked into surfing – when you know that they will forever join the chosen few who passionately pursue the sport – is simple to pin point … just look for the unbreaking smile from ear to ear when they catch their first several waves. Look around at your local line [...]
So you think you want to surf eh? Great! Welcome to the fray, surfer brother or surfer sister … but know that many people never make it past the initial stage of learning to stand up on a board, and few make it to reaching the goal of actually surfing a wave for the “stoke”. [...]
I surf longboards. I have a few boards, but two of them are 9’2″ and wide and thick and have heavy glass. I often find that my arm gets tired if I have to carry one of them too far, but when that happens, I just put it on my head and let it rest [...]
